Tag: USA Travel

  • Things to Do in Dallas: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Things to Do in Dallas: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Dallas rarely sells itself on a postcard, and first-time visitors often arrive expecting glass towers, freeways and not much else. They leave having found the largest contiguous arts district in the country, a free art museum with five thousand years of collection, a park built on a deck over a freeway, the most sobering historic site in Texas at Dealey Plaza, neighborhoods of live music, murals and independent restaurants, one of the biggest state fairs in America every fall, and a food scene that runs from brisket and Tex-Mex to tacos as good as any north of the border. It is also the gateway to Fort Worth, a real Western town with cattle drives and world-class museums half an hour away. This guide covers the sights that earn a day, the neighborhoods worth a half-day, the food, the State Fair and the sports, the day trips, and the practical details that turn a business trip or a stopover into a proper visit.

    If you are still comparing cheap flights to Dallas, read this alongside our guides to the best time to fly to Dallas and whether you need a car. Between the three you can plan the whole trip.

    The Dallas skyline across the Trinity River with the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge
    Downtown Dallas from West Dallas, with Calatrava's Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge over the Trinity River (Photo: Tony Webster via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Dallas at a glance for first-timers

    • Airports: Dallas Fort Worth International (DFW), about 32 km (20 miles) northwest of downtown Dallas, is the main airport and the largest hub of American Airlines. Dallas Love Field (DAL), only about 10 km (6 miles) from downtown, is the home base of Southwest Airlines and handles mostly domestic flights. See our DFW airport guide.
    • Getting around: DART runs one of the longest light-rail networks in the country, reaching downtown, the Arts District, Deep Ellum, Fair Park, the zoo and DFW, and the free M-Line trolley covers Uptown. The metro area is enormous, though, and many visitors rent a car for Fort Worth, Arlington and the suburbs.
    • Money: US dollars. Texas has no state income tax, but the combined sales tax in Dallas is 8.25 percent and hotel taxes add noticeably to a room rate. Tipping 18 to 20 percent in restaurants is expected, and valet parking, which is everywhere, deserves a few dollars.
    • Weather: mild winters with the occasional ice storm, a warm and stormy spring, long, very hot summers with regular 100 °F days, and a warm, pleasant fall. Our month-by-month guide has the detail.
    • Where to stay: downtown or the Arts District for museums, DART and Klyde Warren Park; Uptown for restaurants, bars and the trolley; Deep Ellum for live music; near DFW if you are splitting time with Fort Worth. Our Dallas hotel search covers them all.

    Downtown and Dealey Plaza

    Most visitors begin at Dealey Plaza, on the western edge of downtown, where President John F. Kennedy was assassinated on November 22, 1963. The plaza, the grassy knoll and the triple underpass look much as they did that day, and the former Texas School Book Depository on the corner of Elm and Houston streets now houses The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza. Its exhibition tells the story of Kennedy’s life, the assassination and its aftermath with film, photographs and the preserved corner window from which the shots were fired, and it is restrained and deeply affecting; allow two hours and book a timed ticket in busy months. A block east, the John F. Kennedy Memorial, an open concrete cenotaph by Philip Johnson, is a quiet place to finish. Nearby, the red sandstone Old Red Courthouse of 1892 houses a museum of Dallas County history, and the West End has the Dallas Holocaust and Human Rights Museum. Walk east to see Thanks-Giving Square with its spiral chapel and Pioneer Plaza, where forty-nine bronze longhorns and three cowboys drive a herd down a hill beside the convention center.

    Dealey Plaza and the former Texas School Book Depository in downtown Dallas
    Dealey Plaza, where President Kennedy was assassinated in 1963, with the Sixth Floor Museum in the former Book Depository (Photo: Renelibrary via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    The Arts District and Klyde Warren Park

    On the northern edge of downtown, the Dallas Arts District covers nineteen blocks and is the largest contiguous urban arts district in the United States. The anchor is the Dallas Museum of Art, whose collection spans five millennia, from ancient Mediterranean and pre-Columbian works to European painting, American art and contemporary galleries, and whose general admission is free. Across the street, the Nasher Sculpture Center, designed by Renzo Piano, has one of the finest collections of modern sculpture anywhere, with Rodin, Matisse, Picasso and Calder in a walled garden of live oaks, and the free Crow Museum of Asian Art is a quiet hour of jade, bronze and Japanese screens. For performance, the Meyerson Symphony Center by I. M. Pei is home to the Dallas Symphony Orchestra, the red drum of the Winspear Opera House hosts the Dallas Opera and touring Broadway shows, and the vertical Wyly Theatre is home to the Dallas Theater Center.

    Just north, Klyde Warren Park is the city’s favorite public space: a five-acre lawn built on a deck over the sunken Woodall Rodgers Freeway, opened in 2012 and busy from breakfast to late evening. There are food trucks every day, a children’s park with splash fountains, a dog park, free yoga and concerts, and lawn games, and it stitches the Arts District to Uptown in a way that has reshaped the whole area. Across the freeway, the Perot Museum of Nature and Science, a concrete cube with a glass escalator tube running down its face, has five floors of dinosaurs, gems and hands-on engineering labs that keep children busy for a full morning.

    Klyde Warren Park, the deck park over the freeway beside the Dallas Arts District
    Klyde Warren Park, five acres of lawn built over a sunken freeway between the Arts District and Uptown (Photo: Joe Mabel via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

    Reunion Tower, the Trinity River and West Dallas

    Reunion Tower, the concrete shaft topped by a lattice ball that lights up at night, has been the signature of the Dallas skyline since 1978. Its observation deck gives, on a clear evening, the best overview of the city, from the downtown towers to the long green corridor of the Trinity River below. That river is Dallas’s next frontier. For decades it was hidden behind flood levees; now the white arch of the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge, designed by Santiago Calatrava and opened in 2012, carries traffic across the floodplain to West Dallas, and the old Continental Avenue Bridge beside it has become a pedestrian bridge with seating, shade and views back to the skyline. At the western end, Trinity Groves is a cluster of restaurants and patios, and the sunset view of the city from here is one of the best in town. South of downtown, the Great Trinity Forest is one of the largest urban hardwood forests in the country.

    Neighborhoods worth a half-day

    Deep Ellum

    East of downtown along Elm, Main and Commerce streets, Deep Ellum was the center of the city’s Black commercial life and blues scene in the 1920s, when Blind Lemon Jefferson and Lead Belly played its streets. Today it is the city’s live-music and nightlife district: dozens of venues and bars, murals on nearly every wall, breweries and some of the best barbecue in Dallas. It is on the DART Green Line and walkable from downtown.

    Bishop Arts District

    Across the Trinity in Oak Cliff, a few blocks of 1920s storefronts around Bishop Avenue and Davis Street hold independent boutiques, bookshops, galleries, coffee shops and some of the most interesting restaurants in the city. The Dallas Streetcar runs here from Union Station, and the surrounding streets of Craftsman bungalows make for a good walk.

    Uptown and the Katy Trail

    North of downtown, Uptown is dense, walkable and polished, with restaurants and bars along McKinney Avenue, the West Village at its northern end, and the free M-Line trolley running vintage streetcars through the middle. The Katy Trail, a paved path on a former railroad corridor, runs about 3.5 miles toward Southern Methodist University and is where the city jogs, cycles and walks its dogs.

    Lower Greenville and Knox-Henderson

    Northeast of downtown, Lower Greenville Avenue is a strip of patios, bars and music venues that hosts one of the largest St. Patrick’s Day parades in the South, and Knox-Henderson nearby has restaurants and design shops in a leafier setting. Both are best in the evening.

    The Park Cities

    Highland Park and University Park, north of Uptown, are the city’s old-money enclaves, with SMU, the George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum, and Highland Park Village, one of the country’s first planned shopping centers, opened in 1931.

    Museums, culture and family attractions

    Beyond the Arts District, the George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum on the SMU campus has a full-scale replica of the Oval Office and a sobering exhibit on September 11, and the Meadows Museum, also at SMU, holds one of the largest collections of Spanish art outside Spain. Fair Park, east of Deep Ellum, is a National Historic Landmark of Art Deco exhibition halls built for the 1936 Texas Centennial, home to the African American Museum and busiest during the State Fair. The Dallas Zoo, the oldest in Texas, is on the DART Red Line south of downtown, and its Giants of the Savanna habitat lets giraffes, elephants and zebras share one landscape. At White Rock Lake, the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden has sixty-six acres of gardens on the eastern shore, spectacular in spring during Dallas Blooms and in fall, when its pumpkin village draws crowds. For what is on during your dates, our Dallas events page lists concerts, shows and games.

    The State Fair of Texas

    For about three and a half weeks from late September into October, Fair Park becomes the State Fair of Texas, one of the largest state fairs in the country. It is presided over by Big Tex, the 55-foot talking cowboy who has greeted fairgoers since the 1950s, and it runs on fried food: the corny dog was popularized here, and every year the fair crowns new deep-fried inventions in its Big Tex Choice Awards. Beyond the food there are livestock shows, a huge auto show, free concerts every night, the Texas Star, one of the tallest Ferris wheels in North America, and the Art Deco halls of the park, lit up at night. The biggest day is the Red River Showdown, the University of Texas against the University of Oklahoma at the Cotton Bowl stadium inside the fairgrounds, usually in the second week of October, when half the stadium wears burnt orange and half crimson. Take DART’s Green Line to Fair Park rather than driving, go on a weekday for smaller crowds, and bring an appetite. If you are not coming for the fair, remember that it pushes up hotel rates on its weekends, on Texas-OU weekend in particular.

    Sports

    Dallas is a serious sports town, and its teams are spread across the metro. The Dallas Cowboys play at AT&T Stadium in Arlington, halfway to Fort Worth, a vast building with a retractable roof and one of the largest video boards in sport; it hosted matches of the 2026 World Cup, stages the Cotton Bowl Classic around New Year, and runs tours on non-event days, and the Cowboys play at home every Thanksgiving. Next door, the Texas Rangers, the 2023 World Series champions, play at Globe Life Field, which has a retractable roof for the summer heat. Arlington has no light rail, so a car, a shuttle or a ride-hail is the way in. Closer to the center, the Dallas Mavericks and the Dallas Stars share the American Airlines Center in Victory Park, walkable from Uptown and on DART, and a Mavericks game is the easiest big-league night out in the city. Check what is on sale in Dallas for your dates before you book flights.

    What to eat, and where

    Dallas eats Tex-Mex with conviction, and it has a claim on the style: the frozen margarita machine was invented here in 1971. Order cheese enchiladas in chili gravy, fajitas and a frozen margarita at least once. The second pillar is barbecue: Central Texas-style brisket, smoked for hours over post oak and sliced to order, with lines forming before lunch at the best places in Deep Ellum and beyond. Third, tacos: the taquerias of Oak Cliff serve al pastor, barbacoa and breakfast tacos as good as any in the state. Beyond that, Dallas is a steakhouse city, with grand dining rooms downtown and in Uptown, and a city of immigrant food: Korean restaurants along Royal Lane and in Carrollton, Vietnamese in Garland, and a large Asian dining district in Richardson. The Dallas Farmers Market on the edge of downtown has a food hall and weekend stalls, and the craft-brewery scene in Deep Ellum and the Design District is strong.

    Dallas through the seasons

    What you do in Dallas depends heavily on when you come. Spring (March to May) is the best-loved season: Dallas Blooms fills the Arboretum with tulips, bluebonnets line the highways outside the city in late March and April, patios open, and the Deep Ellum Arts Festival and the Lower Greenville St. Patrick’s Day parade bring crowds. It is also severe-storm season, so watch the forecast. Summer (June to mid-September) is long and hot, with afternoons regularly near or above 100 °F; the best plans are museums by day, Klyde Warren Park and the patios after dark, a Rangers game under the roof, and a morning at White Rock Lake before the heat. Fall (late September to November) is Dallas at its best, with the State Fair, Texas-OU weekend, pumpkins at the Arboretum, football every weekend and warm, clear afternoons. Winter (December to February) is mostly mild and sunny, with holiday lights in Highland Park and the Dallas Marathon in December, but an ice storm can shut the city down for a day or two in most winters. Our month-by-month guide has the fare patterns that go with each season.

    Dallas with kids

    Dallas is a very good city for children, largely because so much of it was built for families and for air conditioning. The Perot Museum is the obvious first stop, with its dinosaur hall and hands-on engineering floor. The Dallas Zoo is an easy train ride from downtown, and the Dallas World Aquarium’s rainforest walk-through works for all ages. Klyde Warren Park’s children’s area and splash pad are free, and the Arboretum has a children’s garden built around science and nature. In Arlington, Six Flags Over Texas, the original park of the chain, and its Hurricane Harbor water park fill a summer day. Fort Worth adds the longhorn cattle drive in the Stockyards and an excellent zoo, and Dinosaur Valley State Park, ninety minutes southwest, has real dinosaur footprints in the riverbed that children can stand in. For families renting a vehicle, our family car rental guide covers the choices.

    Dallas on a budget

    A surprising amount of the best of Dallas costs nothing. The Dallas Museum of Art and the Crow Museum are free, Klyde Warren Park and its daily programming are free, and so are Dealey Plaza, the Kennedy Memorial, Pioneer Plaza, the Katy Trail, the murals of Deep Ellum, White Rock Lake and the pedestrian bridge over the Trinity. The M-Line trolley through Uptown is free, and a DART day pass covers everything else on rail, including the airport. The Sixth Floor Museum, Reunion Tower and the Perot Museum charge admission but are fairly priced. Eat well for less at the taquerias of Oak Cliff, the barbecue joints, where a pound of brisket feeds two, and the food trucks at Klyde Warren. Because so much hotel demand is business travel, downtown and Uptown rates often fall on Friday and Saturday nights, and summer is the cheapest season for rooms. Compare rates by neighborhood on our Dallas hotel search.

    Day trips from Dallas

    Fort Worth, about 50 km (30 miles) west, is the essential side trip, and it feels like a different state. In the Stockyards National Historic District, cowhands drive a herd of Texas longhorns down Exchange Avenue twice a day, the Cowtown Coliseum holds a rodeo on weekend nights, and Billy Bob’s Texas is a honky-tonk the size of a warehouse. The Cultural District has three superb museums: the Kimbell Art Museum in Louis Kahn’s vaulted building, the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth by Tadao Ando, and the free Amon Carter Museum of American Art. Visit Fort Worth has the details, and the Trinity Railway Express commuter train links the two downtowns. Grapevine, beside DFW, has a restored Main Street, wineries and a heritage railroad. Waco, about ninety minutes south on I-35, has Magnolia Market at the Silos and the Waco Mammoth National Monument. For a longer trip, Houston is about four hours south on I-45; our Dallas to Houston driving guide covers the route and our guide to things to do in Houston covers the city. Most of these trips need a car; compare rates on our Dallas car rental page.

    Texas longhorns on the twice-daily cattle drive in the Fort Worth Stockyards
    The longhorn cattle drive in the Fort Worth Stockyards, half an hour west of Dallas (Photo: Lyndi & Jason from Dallastown, Pennsylvania, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Two sample itineraries

    Two days, no car

    Day one: Dealey Plaza and the Sixth Floor Museum in the morning, a walk through downtown past Thanks-Giving Square and Pioneer Plaza, lunch from the food trucks at Klyde Warren Park, the Dallas Museum of Art and the Nasher in the afternoon, and dinner and live music in Deep Ellum. Day two: the Perot Museum or a morning on the Katy Trail, the M-Line trolley through Uptown for lunch on McKinney Avenue, the streetcar to Bishop Arts for the afternoon, and sunset at Reunion Tower or Trinity Groves before a Mavericks game or a show.

    Four days, with Fort Worth

    Add a day for White Rock Lake and the Arboretum, the Bush Library and dinner on Lower Greenville, then pick up a car and spend a full day in Fort Worth, starting with the Kimbell and the Modern and finishing with the cattle drive, a steak and a honky-tonk in the Stockyards, returning the car at DFW on the way home.

    Practical details

    • Transit: buy DART tickets and passes in the GoPass app or at the machines on every rail platform; a day pass covers trains and buses. DART has maps and service alerts; our transit-versus-car guide goes into detail.
    • From DFW: the DART Orange Line from Terminal B to downtown in about 50 minutes, TEXRail to downtown Fort Worth, a taxi or ride-hail, or a rental from the consolidated Rental Car Center. The airport’s site covers ground transport. From Love Field, a DART shuttle bus connects to the light rail, and downtown is a short taxi ride.
    • Weather: sun protection and water from May to September, layers for spring and fall, and a proper jacket for winter cold snaps. The National Weather Service’s Fort Worth office covers Dallas and issues the storm warnings worth heeding in spring.
    • Time zone: Central, one hour behind New York and the same as Chicago and Houston.
    • Entry requirements: visitors from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before boarding; most others need a visa. The State Department’s travel site is the authoritative source.
    • Tourist information: Visit Dallas, the official tourism office, has current events and neighborhood guides.

    Frequently asked questions

    How many days do you need in Dallas?

    Two full days covers Dealey Plaza, the Arts District, Klyde Warren Park, Deep Ellum and Bishop Arts; add a third for White Rock Lake and a game, and a fourth for Fort Worth.

    What is the number one thing to do in Dallas?

    The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza is the one sight almost every visitor should see. In the fall, the State Fair of Texas is the city’s defining experience.

    Is Dallas walkable?

    Downtown, the Arts District, Uptown, Deep Ellum and Bishop Arts are, and DART and the free trolley connect them. The rest of the metro assumes a car, and the summer heat makes long midday walks hard work.

    Do I need a car in Dallas?

    Not for the central neighborhoods. For Arlington, Fort Worth, the suburbs and road trips, yes; rent it only for the days you need it.

    Is Dallas expensive?

    Moderately. Hotels are cheaper than in New York or Los Angeles and often cheaper at weekends, many major sights are free, and food is good value, but State Fair weekends and big conventions push rates up.

    What is Dallas known for?

    Dealey Plaza and the Kennedy assassination, the Cowboys, the State Fair of Texas, Tex-Mex and brisket, a huge Arts District, and a booming business culture.

    Ready to go? Compare flights to Dallas, find a place to stay with our Dallas hotel search, and if Fort Worth, Arlington or a Texas road trip is on the list, price a rental car for those days.

  • Best Time to Fly to Dallas: Seasons, Weather & Prices

    Best Time to Fly to Dallas: Seasons, Weather & Prices

    Dallas does not have a single tourist season the way a beach town or a ski resort does, and that makes its airfares more interesting than most. It is one of the largest business-travel markets in the country, with corporate headquarters, conventions and trade shows filling planes and hotels on weekdays all year. It has two major airports, one of them the biggest hub of the world’s largest airline, which keeps seat supply enormous and competition real. And its leisure calendar is shaped by a climate of mild winters, stormy springs, fierce summers and golden falls, with a three-week state fair and a college football rivalry that fill the city every October. The result is a place where the “best time” depends on whether you care most about weather, price or a particular event, and where the answer is often different for flights and for hotels. This guide walks through the weather month by month, the fare seasons, the events that move prices, and how to choose between DFW and Love Field.

    The short answer

    For weather and things to do, the best windows are mid-March to early May, when spring is green, the Arboretum is in bloom and patios are full, and October to early November, when the heat breaks, the State Fair is on and football fills every weekend. The cheapest fares tend to come in January and early February, after the holidays, and in late August and September before the fair, when the heat keeps leisure travelers away. For hotels, summer is the bargain season and Friday and Saturday nights downtown are often cheaper than weeknights. The most expensive stretches are spring break in mid-March, State Fair weekends and Texas-OU weekend in October, Thanksgiving, and the Christmas and New Year holidays. Whatever you choose, run a flexible-date search on our Dallas flights page; with two airports and hundreds of daily flights, a shift of a day or two often changes the fare band entirely.

    Big Tex, the giant cowboy that greets visitors to the State Fair of Texas in Fair Park
    Big Tex at the State Fair of Texas, three and a half weeks every fall that lift hotel rates across Dallas (Photo: Photo: Andreas Praefcke via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0)

    Dallas’s weather, season by season

    Dallas sits on the North Texas prairie, far from any ocean or mountain range, and that exposure defines its climate: hot, humid air from the Gulf of Mexico in summer, cold fronts sweeping down from the Great Plains in winter, and the collision of the two in spring, which produces some of the most violent thunderstorms in the country. The figures below are approximate seasonal patterns based on the long-term DFW Airport climate normals from NOAA’s National Weather Service; check the current forecast before you pack, because a North Texas cold front can drop the temperature by 20 degrees in an hour.

    MonthTypical daytime highTypical overnight lowWhat it feels likeFare pressure
    Januaryaround 14 °C (57 °F)around 3 °C (37 °F)Mild and often sunny; hard freezes and the odd ice stormLow after New Year’s week
    Februaryaround 16 °C (61 °F)around 5 °C (41 °F)Changeable; warm days and sharp cold snapsLow; rises for Presidents’ Day weekend
    Marcharound 21 °C (69 °F)around 9 °C (49 °F)Spring arrives; windy, with the first stormsHigh for spring break
    Aprilaround 25 °C (77 °F)around 13 °C (56 °F)Warm and green; bluebonnets; severe storms possibleModerate to high
    Mayaround 29 °C (85 °F)around 18 °C (65 °F)The wettest month; humid, with thunderstorms and hailModerate; graduations and Memorial Day
    Junearound 34 °C (93 °F)around 23 °C (73 °F)Hot and humid; storms fade as summer settles inModerate
    Julyaround 36 °C (97 °F)around 25 °C (77 °F)Very hot; 100 °F afternoons are routineModerate for flights; low for hotels
    Augustaround 36 °C (97 °F)around 24 °C (76 °F)The hottest stretch; warm even at midnightLow to moderate
    Septemberaround 32 °C (89 °F)around 21 °C (69 °F)Still summer for most of the month; relief arrives lateLow, rising as the State Fair opens
    Octoberaround 26 °C (79 °F)around 14 °C (58 °F)Warm, dry and bright; the best month for manyHigh, with a Texas-OU spike
    Novemberaround 19 °C (67 °F)around 8 °C (47 °F)Pleasant and mild; the first cold frontsModerate, peak at Thanksgiving
    Decemberaround 14 °C (58 °F)around 4 °C (39 °F)Cool and mostly dry; festive lightsLow until mid-month, then peak

    Three things the table cannot show. First, the spring storms: from March to June, North Texas sits in the path of supercell thunderstorms that can bring large hail, damaging wind, flash flooding and, occasionally, tornadoes. They usually pass in an hour or two, but they can halt operations at DFW and Love Field, delaying flights across the country. Second, the heat: the averages understate a Dallas summer, when a run of 100 °F days with warm, humid nights is normal, pavement radiates heat long after sunset, and a midday walk between museums feels much longer than it looks on the map. Third, the ice: Dallas winters are mild on average, but most years bring a day or two of freezing rain or sleet, and because the city has little equipment for it, an ice storm can close roads, schools and airport runways far more readily than snow does in the North.

    How Dallas’s fare seasons work

    Three calendars drive seats into Dallas. The first is business travel: the metro area is home to a long list of corporate headquarters, including both American Airlines and Southwest Airlines, and its convention center and hotels host trade shows year-round, which keeps Monday-morning and Thursday-evening flights full and weekday hotel rates high. The second is events: the State Fair, college and professional football, big concerts at AT&T Stadium and the holidays create sharp, predictable spikes. The third is leisure, which follows the weather: strong in spring and fall, weak in the heat of summer. On top of all that, the sheer volume of flights through DFW and Love Field keeps fares from most U.S. cities competitive, so Dallas rarely has the sustained price plateaus of a destination like Hawaii or the Rockies.

    Peak season

    Mid-March for spring break, October for the State Fair and football, Thanksgiving week, and roughly December 18 to January 2. Texas-OU weekend, usually the second Saturday of October, is the single biggest hotel squeeze of the fall, and the Christmas holidays push up fares because so many Texans fly out while visitors fly in. If you must travel in peak, book early, fly mid-week, and compare both airports.

    Shoulder season

    April to early June and early November. Spring is lovely and busy with conventions and graduations, and May’s storms bring the occasional disruption; early November, after the fair has closed, offers some of the best weather of the year at noticeably lower hotel rates, until Thanksgiving week.

    Low season

    Early January to early March outside the holiday weekends, and July through September. Winter is the value play for flights, with mild weather most days, and summer is the value play for hotels, which discount heavily when the leisure market disappears into the heat. Pack for 100 °F and plan your days around air conditioning and the result can be a very good-value trip.

    As elsewhere, mid-week departures and early or late flights usually price below Friday and Sunday afternoons on the same route, and a search across a whole month reveals cheaper pairs of dates close to your first choice. Our guide to the best times to book explains how to read those patterns.

    Dallas month by month

    January

    Mild, usually sunny and, after the first week, one of the cheapest months to fly in. The Cotton Bowl Classic at AT&T Stadium around New Year brings a burst of college football fans; after that, the city settles into a quiet stretch of conventions, Mavericks and Stars games at the American Airlines Center, and uncrowded museums. Watch the forecast for ice, which can close the airports for a day.

    February

    Changeable, with springlike afternoons interrupted by sharp cold fronts, and low fares outside Presidents’ Day weekend. Dallas Blooms usually opens at the Arboretum in late February, and it is a good month for museums, restaurants and a basketball or hockey game.

    March

    Spring arrives with wind, warmth and the first thunderstorms. Texas school districts take spring break in mid-March, which fills flights out of Dallas and hotels at family destinations nearby, and the week around it is one of the priciest of the spring. The Lower Greenville St. Patrick’s Day parade and the Arboretum’s tulips are the highlights; book around spring break and late March is excellent.

    April

    The best month for many visitors: warm, green, and with bluebonnets and other wildflowers along the highways outside the city. The Deep Ellum Arts Festival and the Dallas International Film Festival usually fall in spring, the Rangers open their season, and the Mavericks and Stars may begin playoff runs. Severe storms are possible on any afternoon, so keep an eye on warnings.

    May

    Warm, humid and usually the wettest month, with big thunderstorms, hail and the occasional flash flood. Graduations and Memorial Day weekend lift demand, and convention calendars stay busy. Early May is a solid shoulder-season option; build a buffer into connections in case storms delay flights.

    June

    Summer settles in, the storms fade and the heat builds, with highs in the 90s °F by midmonth. Families fly out for vacations, which can make outbound flights busier than inbound ones. Hotel rates begin their summer slide, and evenings at Klyde Warren Park and on the patios are pleasant after dark.

    July

    Very hot, with 100 °F afternoons routine. Fourth of July fireworks draw crowds across the metro, and the Rangers play under their retractable roof. Flights are priced for summer demand from across the country, but hotel rates are among the lowest of the year; this is a good month for a museum-and-restaurant city break if you plan around the heat.

    August

    The hottest stretch, with warm nights and little rain. Leisure demand is at its lowest, school starts early in Texas, and both fares and hotel rates tend to soften in the second half of the month. Come for the value and the indoor attractions, not for walking tours.

    September

    Summer hangs on for most of the month, with relief arriving only in the last week or two. Fares are low early on, college and NFL football begin, and the State Fair of Texas opens in late September, which lifts hotel demand on weekends from then until mid-October.

    October

    The heat breaks, the air dries out, and Dallas is at its best. The State Fair runs through most of the month, with Big Tex, fried everything and free concerts at Fair Park, and the Red River Showdown between Texas and Oklahoma at the Cotton Bowl brings the biggest hotel squeeze of the fall. Add Cowboys home games and busy convention calendars and October is a peak month; book early.

    November

    Mild, often sunny and quieter once the fair has closed, with pleasant weather and softer hotel rates in the first three weeks. Autumn at the Arboretum continues, and holiday lights come on late in the month. Thanksgiving is the exception, with a peak in fares around the holiday and the Cowboys’ traditional home game on the day itself.

    December

    Two months in one. The first half is quiet and good value, with cool weather, holiday lights in Highland Park and the Dallas Marathon. From about December 18, fares jump for the Christmas and New Year holidays as millions of Texans fly out to family and visitors fly in, and the Cotton Bowl brings college football crowds at the turn of the year.

    Flower beds in bloom at the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden
    The Dallas Arboretum in spring, when Dallas Blooms fills the gardens beside White Rock Lake (Photo: Loadmaster (David R. Tribble)

    This image was made by Loadmaster (David R. Tribble).
    Email the author: David R. Tribble
    Also see my personal gallery at Google Photos via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

    Events that move Dallas flight and hotel prices

    Cross-check these against your dates before you book. Exact dates shift each year; Visit Dallas keeps the current calendar.

    • Cotton Bowl Classic (around New Year at AT&T Stadium): a college football crowd on top of the holiday peak.
    • Presidents’ Day weekend (third Monday of February).
    • Texas spring break (mid-March): the biggest family-travel week of the spring.
    • Dallas Blooms (late February to early April): a draw for weekend visitors to the Arboretum.
    • Graduation season and Memorial Day (May).
    • State Fair of Texas (about three and a half weeks from late September into October): weekend hotel rates rise across the city.
    • Texas-OU weekend (usually the second Saturday of October): the single largest hotel spike of the fall.
    • Thanksgiving and the Cowboys’ home game, then Christmas to New Year.
    • Big concerts, playoff runs and major conventions, which can fill downtown hotels on short notice. Our Dallas events page shows what is on sale for your dates.

    Getting in from the airport

    Dallas has two commercial airports, and choosing between them is part of finding the best fare. Dallas Fort Worth International (DFW), halfway between the two cities and about 32 kilometers (20 miles) from downtown Dallas, is one of the busiest airports in the world and the largest hub of American Airlines, with nonstop flights to most of the country and to Europe, Asia and Latin America. Its five terminals are linked airside by the Skylink train, and the airport covers more land than Manhattan. The DART Orange Line runs from Terminal B to downtown Dallas in about 50 minutes, TEXRail runs to downtown Fort Worth, and taxis, ride-hail and the shuttle buses to the consolidated Rental Car Center leave from every terminal. Dallas Love Field (DAL), only about 10 kilometers (6 miles) northwest of downtown, is a smaller single-terminal airport dominated by Southwest Airlines, which has its headquarters there; it serves mainly domestic routes and is by far the quicker ride into the city, about 15 to 20 minutes by car, with a DART shuttle bus to the light rail. Compare both for your dates: the cheapest option often alternates between them. Our DFW airport guide covers the terminals, and our Dallas car-versus-transit guide covers the ride in.

    The Skylink train running past Terminal E at Dallas Fort Worth International Airport
    The Skylink train at DFW, which links all five terminals of one of the busiest airports in the world (Photo: Lars Plougmann from United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Timing tricks that work for Dallas

    • Search both airports. DFW and Love Field serve different mixes of airlines, and the cheaper one changes from week to week. A flexible-date search on TicketScanner shows both at once.
    • Book the hotel first in October. A cheap fare into Texas-OU weekend is not cheap once the room is added. Run a Dallas hotel search for the same dates before you commit to either.
    • Stay over the weekend. Business travel makes downtown and Uptown hotels busiest Monday to Thursday; Friday and Saturday nights are often much cheaper, and so are Saturday flights.
    • Use the heat to your advantage. July and August bring the lowest hotel rates of the year; plan museums, the aquarium and a Rangers game under the roof, and save outdoor time for mornings and evenings.
    • Fly early in storm season. From March to June, thunderstorms tend to build in the afternoon and evening; morning departures and connections through Dallas are less likely to be caught in ground stops. Our guide to how early to arrive covers what to allow.
    • Consider a Texas road trip. Fares into Houston sometimes undercut Dallas, and a one-way rental between the two cities is a classic four-hour drive on I-45.
    • Flying out of Dallas instead? The same seasonality applies in reverse, with spring break and the holidays the tightest; see cheap flights from Dallas.
    The north side of White Rock Lake in east Dallas
    White Rock Lake, where Dallas walks, cycles and paddles in the cooler hours (Photo: Fred A. Jones Bert Firmin via Wikimedia Commons, Public domain)

    What to pack, by season

    Winter (December to February): a medium jacket, layers and something warmer for the cold snaps and ice days, when the wind makes it feel much colder than the number. Spring (March to May): light layers, a rain jacket and an umbrella for the storms, and sunscreen for the bright afternoons. Summer (June to September): the lightest clothing you own, a hat, sunscreen and a refillable water bottle, plus a light layer for aggressively air-conditioned museums, restaurants and planes. Fall (October to November): summer clothes for the afternoons and a sweater for the evenings, with a jacket by late November. Dallas dresses up more than many American cities, so bring something smart for the steakhouses and the Arts District, and boots if you plan to two-step in Fort Worth.

    The best time to fly to Dallas for…

    The State Fair

    A weekday in the first or third week of the fair, when crowds are smaller and hotels cheaper than on the weekends; book the room first if Texas-OU weekend is the goal.

    A Cowboys game

    September to December, with Thanksgiving Day the most famous home game of the season. Arlington is not on rail, so plan transport to AT&T Stadium in advance.

    Spring flowers and patios

    Late March to April, avoiding spring break week, for Dallas Blooms, wildflowers along the highways and the best patio weather of the year.

    The lowest fares

    January after the first week, early February, and late August into September. Pair winter with museums and basketball, and summer with a pool.

    Families

    Early June, before the peak heat, or the fall weekends outside Texas-OU, when the fair, the zoo and the Perot Museum are all at their best.

    International visitors

    Travelers from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before boarding; most others need a visa. The State Department’s travel site explains what applies to you, and the TSA lists what you can carry through security.

    Frequently asked questions

    What is the cheapest month to fly to Dallas?

    January after New Year’s week is consistently among the lowest, followed by early February and late August into September. Hotels are cheapest in July and August.

    What is the best month to visit Dallas for weather?

    October, with April and early November close behind. Summer is very hot, and May is warm but stormy.

    Should I fly into DFW or Love Field?

    Compare both. DFW has far more airlines and international flights and a direct train to downtown; Love Field is much closer to the city and is Southwest’s home base. The cheaper option changes with your dates.

    How hot does Dallas get in summer?

    Afternoon highs in July and August are typically in the upper 90s °F, around 36 °C, and 100 °F days are routine, with warm, humid nights.

    When is tornado season in Dallas?

    Severe weather peaks from March to June. Storms are usually brief and well forecast; follow local warnings, and expect possible flight delays on stormy afternoons.

    How far ahead should I book?

    Earlier for spring break, October, Thanksgiving and the Christmas holidays, when fares tend only to rise; for January, February and late summer, fares are stable enough that picking the right dates matters more.

    Does it snow in Dallas?

    Rarely, and usually not much. Freezing rain and ice are the bigger winter hazard, and even a thin layer can close roads and delay flights for a day or two.

    Ready to pick your dates? Compare fares across the whole month on our Dallas flights page, then find a room with our Dallas hotel search. For what to do when you land, start with our first-timer’s guide to Dallas.

  • Best Time to Fly to Chicago: Seasons, Weather & Prices

    Best Time to Fly to Chicago: Seasons, Weather & Prices

    Chicago is one of the easiest cities in America to fly to, and one of the trickiest to time. O’Hare is a hub for both United and American, Midway is one of Southwest’s biggest bases, and between them there are nonstop flights from almost every city in North America and from dozens abroad, which keeps fares competitive for most of the year. What moves the price of a Chicago trip is less the flight than the city’s calendar: a summer so good that the whole Midwest wants to be on the lakefront, a festival season that fills Grant Park most weekends, a marathon in October, a holiday season on the Magnificent Mile, and above all the convention center, McCormick Place, the largest in North America, whose trade shows can fill every downtown hotel room on a random Tuesday in spring. Then there is winter, which is cold enough to make January the cheapest month of the year. This guide walks through the weather month by month, the fare and hotel seasons, the events that move prices, and how to handle the two airports.

    The short answer

    For the best balance of weather and price, go in late May to mid-June, when the lakefront comes alive before the summer peak, or in September to mid-October, when the weather is often the best of the year and the summer crowds have gone. The cheapest fares and hotel rates come in January and February, after the New Year week, and in the first half of March, when the city is cold, the museums are quiet and the hotels are hungry. The most expensive stretches are June to August, especially festival weekends like Lollapalooza, marathon weekend in October, the holiday weeks from Thanksgiving to New Year, and any week when a major convention is in town, which can happen in almost any month. Whatever you choose, run a flexible-date search on our Chicago flights page; a shift of a few days, or a switch between O’Hare and Midway, can change the fare band entirely.

    The Chicago skyline from North Avenue Beach on Lake Michigan
    North Avenue Beach, where Chicago spends its summer, and the reason June to August is peak season (Photo: w_lemay via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Chicago’s weather, season by season

    Chicago has a continental climate moderated, sometimes, by Lake Michigan. Winters are cold and windy, with snow from December to March and occasional Arctic outbreaks that push wind chills far below zero; spring comes late, and the lake keeps the shore cool into June; summers are warm to hot and humid, with thunderstorms; and fall is long, dry and clear. The figures below are approximate seasonal patterns based on the long-term climate normals from NOAA’s National Weather Service office for Chicago; check the current forecast before you pack, because a spring day by the lake can be 10 degrees cooler than the same day at O’Hare.

    MonthTypical daytime highTypical overnight lowWhat it feels likeFare pressure
    Januaryaround 0 °C (32 °F)around -8 °C (18 °F)Cold, gray and windy; Arctic snaps bring bitter wind chillsLow after New Year’s week
    Februaryaround 2 °C (36 °F)around -6 °C (21 °F)Still deep winter; the snowiest month in some yearsLow; rises for the Auto Show and Presidents’ Day
    Marcharound 8 °C (47 °F)around -1 °C (30 °F)Raw and changeable; a warm day, then snowLow to moderate; spring break and St. Patrick’s weekend
    Aprilaround 15 °C (59 °F)around 4 °C (40 °F)Spring in fits and starts; cool by the lake, rain showersModerate
    Mayaround 21 °C (70 °F)around 10 °C (50 °F)Green and pleasant, but the lakefront can stay chillyModerate; conventions and Memorial Day push it up
    Junearound 27 °C (80 °F)around 16 °C (60 °F)Warm, long days; beaches open; thunderstormsHigh
    Julyaround 29 °C (84 °F)around 19 °C (66 °F)Hot and humid, with heat waves; the lake breeze helpsPeak
    Augustaround 28 °C (82 °F)around 18 °C (64 °F)Hot and humid; the warmest lake swimming of the yearHigh, easing late in the month
    Septemberaround 24 °C (75 °F)around 13 °C (56 °F)Often the best month: warm, dry and sunnyModerate to high
    Octoberaround 17 °C (62 °F)around 7 °C (44 °F)Crisp and clear; fall color in the parksModerate, with a marathon spike
    Novemberaround 9 °C (48 °F)around 1 °C (33 °F)Gray and cooling fast; first snow possibleLow, then high for Thanksgiving
    Decemberaround 2 °C (36 °F)around -5 °C (23 °F)Cold and festive; snow likely by the holidaysModerate early, then peak for the holidays

    Three things the table cannot show. First, the wind chill: Chicago’s nickname has nothing to do with the weather, but the wind off the lake and down the canyons of the Loop makes a -5 °C (23 °F) day feel much colder, and an Arctic outbreak in January or February can push the wind chill to levels where exposed skin is at risk within minutes. Second, the lake effect: in spring and early summer, an onshore breeze can drop the temperature along the shore by 10 degrees or more in an hour, which is why forecasts say “cooler by the lake”, and in winter the lake can add bands of snow. Third, the thunderstorms: summer storms roll in fast from the west, and they are the main cause of delays at O’Hare between June and August, not the snow.

    How Chicago’s fare seasons work

    Three calendars drive demand for Chicago. The first is the leisure season, which is heavily weighted to summer, when the lakefront, the festivals and the ballparks draw visitors from across the Midwest and the country. The second is the convention calendar: McCormick Place and the big downtown hotels host trade shows and medical and industry conferences through most of the year, and a single large show can fill the city’s hotels and lift weekday fares in any month except the depth of winter. The third is the hub effect: because O’Hare and Midway are major connecting airports with heavy competition among United, American and Southwest, airfares to Chicago are often lower than the city’s popularity would suggest, and the hotel is usually the bigger variable in the trip.

    Peak season

    June to August, marathon weekend in October, and roughly the week of Thanksgiving through New Year’s Day. Summer brings the highest hotel rates of the year, with the festival weekends, the Fourth of July and Lollapalooza at the top; the holidays bring demand for the Magnificent Mile lights, the Christkindlmarket and family visits. If you must travel in peak, book early, fly mid-week, and compare hotels across neighborhoods rather than only downtown.

    Shoulder season

    April to May and September to early November. Late May and early June give you long days and blooming parks before the summer surge; September and October give you the city’s most reliable weather. These are also the busiest months for conventions, so check for a large show before you book: a week that looks cheap in the airfare calendar can still carry a hotel spike.

    Low season

    January to mid-March, outside the New Year week and the big February events. Fares and hotel rates are at their lowest, the theaters, museums and restaurants are quiet, and the Bulls and Blackhawks are in season. The trade-off is real cold. Build a buffer into connections, because snowstorms can ground flights at O’Hare for a day, and pack for wind chills below freezing even on a “mild” day.

    As elsewhere, mid-week departures and early or late flights usually price below Friday and Sunday afternoons on the same route, and a search across a whole month reveals cheaper pairs of dates close to your first choice. Our guide to the best times to book explains how to read those patterns.

    Chicago month by month

    January

    The cheapest month of the year to fly and to stay, after the first week. It is also the coldest, with gray skies, regular snow and the possibility of a polar blast. The upside is a city to yourself: no lines at the Art Institute or the Field Museum, easy restaurant reservations, the ice rink in Millennium Park, Bulls and Blackhawks games at the United Center, and the underground Pedway to get around the Loop without a coat. Chicago Restaurant Week, a multi-week run of set-price menus across the city, usually starts in late January or early February.

    February

    Similar weather and low fares, with two exceptions: the Chicago Auto Show at McCormick Place, one of the largest in the country, which fills downtown hotels for about ten days, and the Presidents’ Day weekend. Otherwise February is excellent value for a museum, theater and food trip.

    March

    Raw and changeable, with snow and sixty-degree days in the same week. The river turns green for the St. Patrick’s Day parade weekend, which draws huge crowds downtown, and college spring breaks lift fares in the second half of the month. The first half of March remains one of the cheapest windows of the year.

    April

    Spring arrives, unevenly: the tulips on Michigan Avenue bloom, the Cubs and White Sox open their seasons in weather that can include snow, and the lake keeps the shore cool. Fares are moderate and hotel rates begin to climb, and the first large conventions of the year appear. A good month for the city if you pack layers and do not plan on the beach.

    May

    Green, pleasant and busy. The National Restaurant Association Show and other large conventions at McCormick Place fill hotels for parts of the month, and Memorial Day weekend, when the beaches officially open, is the start of summer. The Riverwalk and the patios come back to life. Book around the big shows and late May is a lovely time to visit.

    June

    Long days, warm weather and the start of the festival season: the Chicago Blues Festival in Millennium Park, the free Grant Park Music Festival concerts, street festivals in the neighborhoods nearly every weekend, and the Pride Parade on the last Sunday of the month. Fares and hotel rates climb through the month; early June is the value play.

    July

    Peak summer. The Fourth of July fireworks, the beaches, the rooftop bars, the ballparks and the architecture cruises are all at full capacity, and the weather is hot and humid with the occasional heat wave. Hotel rates are near their annual high, and Lollapalooza, which can start at the end of July, pushes them higher still.

    August

    Lollapalooza fills Grant Park for four days in late July or early August, and the Chicago Air and Water Show takes over the lakefront sky later in the month. The lake is at its warmest for swimming, the city is at its liveliest, and the last week, once schools start, brings slightly softer prices. Thunderstorms are the main travel hazard.

    September

    The month many Chicagoans would pick: warm and dry, with the beach still usable for the first few weeks and the humidity gone. The Chicago Jazz Festival fills Labor Day weekend, and the Bears’ season begins at Soldier Field. It is also a heavy convention month, so hotel rates can be higher than the weather-and-crowds picture suggests.

    October

    Crisp, clear and colorful in Lincoln Park and along the lakefront. The Chicago Marathon, on a Sunday in early-to-mid October, is one of the world’s major marathons, and that weekend is among the most expensive of the year for hotels. Open House Chicago, when buildings across the city open their doors for free, is a highlight for architecture lovers. Outside marathon weekend, October is excellent value.

    November

    Gray and cooling, with the first snow possible late in the month. The first half is quiet and cheap. The Magnificent Mile Lights Festival on the weekend before Thanksgiving opens the holiday season, the Christkindlmarket opens in Daley Plaza, and Thanksgiving week brings a sharp spike in fares as the whole country travels.

    December

    Two months in one. The first half is festive and moderately priced: the lights, the tree in Millennium Park, the markets, the windows on State Street, holiday shows at the theaters. From about December 18, fares rise sharply for Christmas and New Year, and New Year’s Eve hotel rates downtown are among the highest of the winter.

    Millennium Park in downtown Chicago under snow in winter
    Chicago in winter: cold, windy and the cheapest time of year to visit (Photo: Tony Webster via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

    Events that move Chicago flight and hotel prices

    Cross-check these against your dates before you book. Exact dates shift each year; Choose Chicago, the city’s official tourism site, keeps the current calendar.

    • Chicago Auto Show (February, about ten days at McCormick Place).
    • St. Patrick’s Day parade weekend (usually the Saturday before March 17), when the river is dyed green.
    • Major conventions at McCormick Place, which can fill downtown hotels in any month but cluster in spring and fall; if weekday rates look strangely high, that is usually why.
    • Memorial Day weekend (last Monday of May): the start of beach season.
    • Blues Festival and Pride (June), and the Fourth of July.
    • Lollapalooza (four days in late July or early August): the single biggest summer hotel spike.
    • Air and Water Show (August) and the Jazz Festival (Labor Day weekend).
    • Chicago Marathon (a Sunday in early-to-mid October).
    • Thanksgiving through New Year’s Day, with the Lights Festival the weekend before Thanksgiving.
    • Home games and concerts: Cubs and White Sox from April to September, Bears from September, Bulls and Blackhawks from October. Our Chicago events page shows what is on sale for your dates.

    Getting in from the airports

    Chicago has two commercial airports, both run by the city’s Department of Aviation. O’Hare International (ORD), about 27 km (17 miles) northwest of the Loop, is one of the busiest airports in the world, a hub for United and American, and the city’s main international gateway, with Terminal 5 as its international terminal. The CTA Blue Line runs from beneath the terminal core to the Loop 24 hours a day, in about 45 minutes, and it is often faster than a taxi at rush hour on the Kennedy Expressway, where the drive can take anywhere from 30 minutes to well over an hour. Midway (MDW), about 16 km (10 miles) southwest of the Loop, is smaller and easier, dominated by Southwest, with the CTA Orange Line reaching the Loop in about 25 minutes. Taxis, ride-hail and rental cars are available at both; at O’Hare, the rental companies share a multi-modal facility reached by the airport transit system. Our Chicago car-versus-transit guide works through the ground-transport decision, and our O’Hare airport guide covers the terminals.

    Concourse B in Terminal 1 at Chicago O'Hare International Airport
    O'Hare's Terminal 1, the United hub and one of the busiest airport complexes in the world (Photo: Dllu via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    Timing tricks that work for Chicago

    • Search both airports. O’Hare and Midway compete on many routes, and Southwest’s big schedule at Midway often undercuts the O’Hare fare on domestic flights; compare both before you book.
    • Check the convention calendar. A cheap weekday fare in May or September can come with a hotel rate that doubles the trip. Run a Chicago hotel search for the same dates before you commit to either.
    • Fly mid-week, stay the weekend. Chicago’s business travel makes Monday morning and Thursday evening flights the busiest, while downtown hotels, full of conventioneers on weekdays, are sometimes cheaper on Friday and Saturday nights outside summer.
    • Go in winter for value. January to early March has the lowest prices of the year and the museums, theaters and restaurants at their most relaxed; just pack for the cold.
    • Consider Milwaukee. Milwaukee’s airport, about 145 km (90 miles) north, has its own Amtrak station on the line to downtown Chicago, and occasionally has better fares.
    • Build a weather buffer. Snow in winter and thunderstorms in summer both cause ground stops at O’Hare; avoid the tightest connections. Our guide to how early to arrive covers what to allow.
    • Flying out of Chicago instead? O’Hare’s route network makes it one of the best departure airports in the country; see cheap flights from Chicago.
    Runners on the streets of Chicago during the Chicago Marathon
    The Chicago Marathon in October, one of the most expensive hotel weekends of the fall (Photo: bradhoc from USA via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    What to pack, by season

    Winter (December to March): a properly warm, windproof coat, a hat that covers your ears, gloves, a scarf, waterproof boots with grip, and thermal layers for the coldest days; Chicagoans dress for the wind chill, not the thermometer. Spring (April to May): layers, a rain jacket and a warm sweater for the lakefront, which can be much cooler than inland. Summer (June to August): light, breathable clothing, a swimsuit for the beaches, sunscreen, and a light layer for air-conditioned museums and evening boat tours. Fall (September to November): layers again, a medium jacket by October and a warm coat by November. In every season, bring comfortable walking shoes; this is a city best seen on foot.

    The best time to fly to Chicago for…

    Summer on the lakefront

    Mid-June to mid-July for long days and warm beaches, or late August for the warmest water with slightly fewer crowds. Book early and check for festival weekends.

    Good weather without the crowds

    September, avoiding the big convention weeks, or the first half of June.

    The lowest fares

    Mid-January to early March, outside the Auto Show and the long weekends, with Restaurant Week as a bonus.

    Baseball

    Any time from April to September, but May, June and September for comfortable day games at Wrigley without July’s heat.

    Families

    June or August, when the beaches, Navy Pier and the Museum Campus are all in full swing; December for the holiday lights if the budget allows.

    International visitors

    Travelers from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before they board; most others need a visa. The State Department’s travel site explains what applies to you, U.S. Customs and Border Protection covers arrival, and the TSA lists what you can carry through security.

    Frequently asked questions

    What is the cheapest month to fly to Chicago?

    January, after the New Year week, followed by February outside the Auto Show and early March.

    What is the best month to visit Chicago for weather?

    September, with late May, June and early October close behind. July and August are hot and humid; January and February are very cold.

    Should I fly into O’Hare or Midway?

    Whichever is cheaper for your route. O’Hare has far more flights and all long-haul international service; Midway is closer to the Loop and quicker to get through, and it is Southwest’s base.

    How expensive is Chicago during Lollapalooza?

    Very, for hotels: it is one of the most expensive weekends of the summer, and downtown sells out. Flights rise too, though less sharply. Book well ahead or pick another weekend.

    How cold does Chicago get in winter?

    Daytime highs around freezing are typical in January, but Arctic outbreaks can bring temperatures well below -18 °C (0 °F) and dangerous wind chills for a few days most winters.

    How far ahead should I book?

    Earlier for summer, marathon weekend, the holidays and convention weeks, when fares and rates tend only to rise; for January to early March, fares are stable enough that finding the right dates matters more than booking early.

    Why is it called the Windy City?

    Nobody is entirely sure. One popular theory credits the city’s boastful nineteenth-century boosters and politicians, another simply the weather; either way, the wind off Lake Michigan makes the name feel earned in January.

    Ready to pick your dates? Compare fares across the whole month on our Chicago flights page, then find a room with our Chicago hotel search. For what to do when you land, start with our first-timer’s guide to Chicago.

  • Chicago: Should You Rent a Car or Rely on Public Transit?

    Chicago: Should You Rent a Car or Rely on Public Transit?

    Chicago is the rare American city where most visitors are better off without a car. It has the second-largest public transit system in the country, trains that run from both airports straight into downtown, a 24-hour rail line to O’Hare, a compact core of walkable neighborhoods, a lakefront trail made for bikes, and some of the most expensive parking and highest rental taxes anywhere in the Midwest. The expressways into the city are also among the most congested in the nation. But the question is not quite closed. Chicago is the hub of the Midwest, and a surprising number of travelers use it as the start of a road trip to Wisconsin, Michigan or the Illinois countryside, visit family in the far-flung suburbs, or want the freedom to reach Starved Rock or the Indiana Dunes on their own schedule. This guide explains how the city is laid out, how the ‘L’, the buses and Metra work, what driving and parking here are really like, and gives you a straightforward way to decide.

    The short answer

    Skip the car if you are staying downtown, in River North, the West Loop, the Magnificent Mile or a North Side neighborhood, and your plans are the museums, the lakefront, the river, the ballparks and the restaurants; the ‘L’, the buses, Divvy bikes and your feet will cover all of it, and you will save the parking fees, the taxes and the traffic. That is most visitors. Rent a car if you are driving on to Milwaukee, Wisconsin’s lakes, Michigan or Minneapolis, if you are visiting family in the outer suburbs, if you have a day planned at Starved Rock or Galena, or if you are traveling with small children and a lot of gear to a hotel outside the transit network. And if you need a car for only part of the trip, rent it only for those days, picking up in the city rather than at O’Hare. Compare rental rates for any of these plans on our Chicago car rental page.

    How Chicago is laid out

    Chicago is a grid, and a very logical one. Every address is numbered from the intersection of State and Madison Streets in the Loop, with 800 numbers to a mile, so 1600 North is two miles north of Madison and 3200 West is four miles west of State. Lake Michigan forms the eastern edge of everything. Downtown is the Loop, the business district inside the ring of elevated tracks, with Millennium Park and the Art Institute on its lake side; the Chicago River wraps its north and west sides. North of the river are River North and the Magnificent Mile, then the Gold Coast, Old Town, Lincoln Park and Lakeview along the lake. West of the Loop is the West Loop and Fulton Market; the Museum Campus and the South Loop are to the south, with Chinatown, Pilsen and, farther down the lake, Hyde Park. The city extends for miles in every direction, and the suburbs for many more, with O’Hare on the northwest edge and Midway on the Southwest Side.

    Hotels cluster in the Loop, River North, the Magnificent Mile and the West Loop, with a large group around O’Hare in Rosemont and a scattering in the neighborhoods. Our Chicago hotel search lets you compare them, and it is worth checking the parking fee on any hotel before you decide on a car.

    Getting in from the airports

    O’Hare (ORD) is about 27 km (17 miles) northwest of the Loop. The CTA Blue Line leaves from a station beneath the parking garage in the middle of the terminal complex, runs 24 hours a day, and reaches the Loop in about 45 minutes for a slightly higher fare than a normal ride; it is the cheapest way downtown and, at rush hour, often the fastest. By taxi or ride-hail, the drive along the Kennedy Expressway takes anywhere from 30 minutes late at night to well over an hour at the evening peak. The rental companies share a multi-modal facility reached by the free airport transit train. Midway (MDW), about 16 km (10 miles) southwest of the Loop, is simpler still: the CTA Orange Line starts at the terminal and reaches the Loop in about 25 minutes, and the rental counters and taxis are a short walk away. The Chicago airports’ site covers ground transport at both; our O’Hare airport guide covers the layout.

    A CTA 'L' train on the elevated tracks at the northeast corner of the Loop
    The 'L' on the elevated Loop tracks, the cheapest sightseeing ride in the city (Photo: Daniel Schwen via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    Chicago’s transit, explained

    The Chicago Transit Authority runs the ‘L’ trains and the city buses, Metra runs the commuter rail to the suburbs, and Pace runs the suburban buses. For a visitor, the CTA alone covers almost everything, and it is frequent, extensive and, on the main lines, around the clock.

    The ‘L’

    Eight color-coded lines and about 145 stations. The Red Line is the backbone, running north-south through the city under State Street, with stops for the Magnificent Mile, Wrigley Field (Addison), Chinatown and the White Sox ballpark. The Blue Line runs from O’Hare through Logan Square, Wicker Park and the Loop to the West Side. Both run 24 hours. The Brown, Green, Orange, Pink and Purple Lines circle the Loop on the elevated tracks that give the district its name, and then fan out to the North Side, the West Side, Oak Park and Midway; the Yellow Line is a short shuttle to Skokie. Riding the Brown Line around the elevated Loop at dusk is one of the best cheap sightseeing trips in the city. Trains on most lines run every few minutes at peak times and less often late at night; check the CTA’s train tracker for real-time arrivals.

    Buses

    The CTA’s bus network follows the grid and reaches everywhere the ‘L’ does not, including the Museum Campus, Navy Pier and the lakefront neighborhoods. Useful routes for visitors run along Michigan Avenue, the lakefront and the major east-west streets, and some of the busiest run through the night. Buses get caught in traffic at rush hour, but for short trips across the grid they are hard to beat.

    Metra and the South Shore Line

    Metra’s eleven commuter lines leave from four downtown terminals, Union Station, the Ogilvie Transportation Center, LaSalle Street and Millennium Station, for the suburbs, including Evanston, Oak Park and the Chicago Botanic Garden. Service is frequent at rush hour and thinner at weekends. The separate South Shore Line runs from Millennium Station to Indiana Dunes National Park and South Bend.

    Fares and tickets

    The simplest way to pay on the CTA is to tap a contactless bank card or a phone wallet at the turnstile or on the bus; you can also buy a reusable Ventra card at stations, or use the Ventra app, which also sells Metra tickets. One-, three- and seven-day unlimited passes are good value if you will ride more than a few times a day, and transfers within two hours are discounted or included depending on how you pay. Trips starting at the O’Hare station cost more than a standard ride. Children under seven ride free, and there are reduced fares for older children, seniors and riders with disabilities. Check the CTA’s site for current fares before you go.

    Accessibility

    Every CTA bus is accessible, and most ‘L’ stations have elevators, though some older stations on the elevated lines do not; the CTA is working through them and marks accessible stations on its maps. Check before relying on a particular station with a wheelchair or a stroller.

    Beyond the CTA

    • Walking and the Pedway. The Loop, River North, the Magnificent Mile and the lakefront are all easy on foot, and the grid makes it hard to get lost. In winter, the Pedway, a network of underground tunnels and overhead bridges beneath about forty blocks of the Loop, links stations, office buildings and department stores out of the wind.
    • Divvy bikes. The city’s bike-share system has thousands of pedal bikes and e-bikes at docks across the city, and the Lakefront Trail, the Riverwalk and a growing network of protected lanes make it the best way to see the shore. Buy a day pass or ride by the minute through the Divvy app.
    • Water taxis. In the warmer months, water taxis run along the river between the train stations, Michigan Avenue and Chinatown, and across the harbor between Navy Pier and the Museum Campus. They are transport and a sightseeing trip at once.
    • Taxis and ride-hail. Licensed taxis and the ride-hail apps operate across the city. For a group of three or four, a short ride is competitive with transit fares, and late at night it is the easy way home from the neighborhoods off the 24-hour lines.
    • Amtrak. Union Station is the hub of the national rail network, with frequent trains to Milwaukee and regular services to Detroit, St. Louis and beyond; Amtrak is a genuine alternative to a rental for trips to Milwaukee.
    A Divvy bike-share bike on the Lakefront Trail in Chicago
    A Divvy bike on the Lakefront Trail, the best way to see the shore (Photo: DimiTalen via Wikimedia Commons, CC0)

    Driving in Chicago: what it is really like

    Driving in Chicago is manageable for anyone used to a big American city, and the grid makes navigation easy, but it is rarely fast. The expressways, the Kennedy to O’Hare, the Dan Ryan south, the Eisenhower west, the Stevenson toward Midway and the Edens north, converge on downtown and jam every weekday morning and evening, and the city consistently ranks among the most congested in the United States. The Circle Interchange, where they meet west of the Loop, is notorious. Lake Shore Drive, officially renamed Jean Baptiste Point DuSable Lake Shore Drive, is the scenic exception: an expressway along the lakefront with the skyline on one side and the beaches on the other, and one of the great urban drives in the country, though it too backs up at rush hour and trucks are banned from it. Downtown streets are dense with pedestrians, cyclists, buses and delivery vehicles, many turns are restricted, and summer brings construction on the main routes and street closures for festivals and parades.

    Lake Shore Drive running north along Lake Michigan in the evening
    Lake Shore Drive, one of the great urban drives in America, and still jammed at rush hour (Photo: Downtowngal via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    Parking

    Parking is where a Chicago rental gets expensive. The city’s parking meters were leased to a private operator in 2008, and the rates in the Loop and River North are among the highest of any American city; pay at the street boxes or with the ParkChicago app, and read the signs for rush-hour restrictions, which tow cars from some arterial streets at peak times. Downtown hotels charge a substantial nightly fee, often for valet only, and the garages are priced accordingly, although booking a garage space online in advance can cut the rate considerably. In the neighborhoods, residential permit zones cover many side streets in the evenings, and street cleaning signs from spring to fall mean a ticket or a tow for the unwary. In winter, the city bans overnight parking on certain signed arterial streets from December 1 to April 1, and a separate ban kicks in on other routes after a heavy snowfall. The city’s impound lots are a long way from anywhere, and retrieving a towed car costs a day of your trip.

    Rules and conditions worth knowing

    • Tolls. The Illinois Tollway, which includes the roads to O’Hare’s western side, the Tri-State around the suburbs and the route toward Wisconsin, is fully electronic, with no cash booths. Rental companies offer transponder programs for a daily fee; if you decline, you can usually pay the tolls online by license plate within the grace period on the Illinois Tollway’s site. I-PASS and E-ZPass transponders both work.
    • Cameras. Speed cameras operate near parks and schools across the city, and red-light cameras at more than a hundred intersections; the fines follow the car, and the rental company will bill you with a fee on top.
    • Phones. Illinois bans handheld phone use while driving; hands-free only.
    • Right turns on red are permitted after a full stop unless signed otherwise, and many downtown intersections are signed otherwise.
    • Winter driving. The city and state plow quickly, and rental cars on all-season tires cope with most Chicago winters, but lake-effect snow bands and ice storms can make the expressways treacherous for a few hours. Check conditions before long drives from December to March.
    • Fuel and taxes. Layered state, county and city taxes make fuel in Chicago noticeably pricier than in Indiana or Wisconsin, and Chicago and O’Hare add some of the steepest rental taxes and fees in the country. Fill up across the state line on a road trip.
    Traffic on the Kennedy Expressway approaching downtown Chicago
    The Kennedy Expressway, the road from O'Hare, where the Blue Line often beats a taxi at rush hour (Photo: Ken Lund from Reno, Nevada, USA via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    When renting a car makes sense

    • Midwest road trips. Chicago is the natural start for a drive north to Milwaukee, Madison and Minneapolis, or east around the lake to Michigan; our route guides for Chicago to Minneapolis and Chicago to Detroit cover the two classic runs.
    • State parks and small towns. Starved Rock State Park, Galena and Lake Geneva in Wisconsin are effectively car-only.
    • Family in the suburbs. The suburbs sprawl for 50 miles or more, and while Metra reaches many of them, a car earns its keep daily if your base is out there.
    • Families with small children and gear staying outside the city, where the train is not an option.
    • A hotel near O’Hare for a business trip to the suburbs, where offices are spread out along the tollways.

    If any of those apply, our rental car booking tips cover insurance, deposits and the questions to ask at the counter, and our family car rental guide looks at vehicle choice.

    When it does not

    • You are staying downtown, in River North, the West Loop or a North Side neighborhood, and your plans are the city.
    • You are in town for a convention at McCormick Place, a ball game, a concert or a festival, when traffic and parking are at their worst and transit goes straight to the door.
    • Your day trips are Oak Park, Evanston, the Indiana Dunes or Milwaukee, all of which have direct trains.
    • You are traveling solo or as a couple and would spend more on the rental, taxes and parking than on a week of transit passes and the odd taxi.

    The hybrid plan for a city-plus-road-trip visit

    Go car-free for the city days and rent only for the days you leave town, and think carefully about where you pick up. Renting at O’Hare makes sense if you are driving straight out on arrival toward Wisconsin or the western suburbs, because the tollways are right there and you never enter downtown traffic. For everyone else, it pays to take the Blue Line or the Orange Line into the city, spend the first days without a car, and pick up from a neighborhood or downtown rental office on the morning you leave; you avoid the airport concession fees and several nights of hotel parking. If your road trip ends somewhere else, a one-way rental to Minneapolis or Detroit is a classic Midwest itinerary, though one-way fees vary widely by company and season. Book ahead for summer weekends and holiday weeks. Compare the day rates on our Chicago car rental page against a full-trip rental and the difference is usually obvious.

    A worked cost comparison

    Numbers change with the season and the booking window, so treat this as a method rather than a quote, and check current rates before deciding. For a four-night city break downtown for two people, the car-free version costs two Blue Line trips each way, a pair of multi-day CTA passes, perhaps a Divvy day pass and two or three late-night ride-hail trips; the rental version adds four days of a compact car with Chicago’s rental taxes, four nights of hotel parking at downtown rates, fuel and the airport fees, and buys you nothing you could not reach faster by train. The transit option wins by a wide margin. For the same four nights with a day at Starved Rock, the car-free version cannot easily do it; the hybrid version adds a single-day rental picked up in the city, fuel and a toll or two, and is still far cheaper than a four-day rental with parking. For a week-long road trip to Wisconsin or Michigan that starts in Chicago, a rental is the only practical answer, and the question becomes where to pick it up: O’Hare, if you leave on arrival; the city, if you spend the first nights downtown. Run the rental rates for your dates on our Chicago car rental page and put them beside the transit costs before you choose.

    Driving out of Chicago in each season

    Getting out of Chicago is the hardest part of any road trip from it. In summer, the problem is traffic: northbound on the Edens and the Kennedy on Friday afternoons, as the city heads for Wisconsin’s lakes and the Michigan dunes, and southbound on Sunday evenings, can add an hour or more to the drive, and construction season narrows the expressways from spring to fall. Leave early in the morning or after the evening peak. In fall, the drives north to Door County and Wisconsin’s farm country, and east into Michigan, are at their most beautiful in early-to-mid October, and the roads are quieter once school is back. In winter, the expressways are plowed and generally open, but lake-effect snow can hit northwest Indiana and southwest Michigan hard, making the I-94 run toward Detroit slow or dangerous for a few hours at a time, and Wisconsin and Minnesota can see heavy snow on the way to Minneapolis; check the forecast and the state road-condition sites before you leave, and carry a scraper, a full tank and a warm layer. In spring, the roads are wet and potholed after the freeze-thaw, and the first thunderstorms arrive. In every season, remember that the drive to Detroit crosses into Eastern time, so you lose an hour going east and gain it coming back.

    Decision table

    Your tripRecommendationWhy
    City break downtown, couple or soloNo carThe ‘L’, buses, Divvy and walking cover it; parking and rental taxes are high
    Convention at McCormick PlaceNo carShuttles, buses and Metra serve it; downtown traffic is at its worst
    Ball game, concert or festivalNo carThe Red Line goes to both ballparks; festival street closures make driving miserable
    City plus one day outHybrid: rent in the city for that dayCar-free city days, a single-day rental for Starved Rock or Galena
    Oak Park, Evanston, Milwaukee or the DunesNo car: take the ‘L’, Metra, Amtrak or the South Shore LineAll have direct trains from downtown
    Family visit to the suburbsRent for the whole staySuburban distances make the car worthwhile daily
    Business trip to suburban officesRent at O’HareThe tollways start at the airport; offices are spread out
    Midwest road tripRent (consider one-way to Minneapolis or Detroit)Chicago is the start, not the destination

    Money-saving tips for both options

    • On transit: tap your card or phone, buy a multi-day pass if you will ride often, take the Blue or Orange Line from the airport instead of a taxi, and remember children under seven ride free.
    • On a rental: pick up in the city to avoid the airport fees, rent only for the days you leave town, compare the transponder fee with paying tolls online, decline extras you already have through a credit card or home policy (check first), and fill up outside Chicago.
    • On the hotel: if you are renting, price the parking fee into the room rate, and look at garages you can book online nearby, which are often cheaper than hotel valet.
    • On timing: avoid the expressways in the weekday peaks and on summer Friday afternoons, and watch for convention weeks, when both hotels and traffic are at their worst; the best time to fly to Chicago guide lists the busiest dates.
    • On day trips: for one or two people, a return Amtrak or South Shore Line ticket usually costs less than a day’s rental plus fuel, parking and tolls, and you can read on the way.

    Frequently asked questions

    Is it worth renting a car in Chicago?

    For a city visit, no; the transit is good and parking, taxes and traffic are all expensive. For road trips, the suburbs, state parks and small towns, yes, and rent only for those days.

    Is Chicago public transit good for tourists?

    Very. The ‘L’ and the buses reach almost every sight, the Red and Blue Lines run 24 hours, and both airports have direct train service to the Loop.

    How do I get from O’Hare to downtown Chicago?

    The Blue Line in about 45 minutes, around the clock, or a taxi or ride-hail in 30 minutes to more than an hour depending on traffic.

    How do I get from Midway to downtown Chicago?

    The Orange Line from the terminal to the Loop in about 25 minutes, or a taxi or ride-hail in 20 to 40 minutes.

    Is parking expensive in downtown Chicago?

    Yes, among the most expensive in the country, both on the street and at hotels. Booking a garage online in advance helps, but a downtown visit is cheaper without a car.

    Do I need to pay tolls in a rental car in Chicago?

    Only on the tollways, which are cashless. Use the rental company’s transponder program or pay online by license plate within the grace period.

    Is it safe to ride the ‘L’ at night?

    The main lines are busy into the evening and generally safe; late at night, ride in a car with other passengers, near the front where the operator is, and consider a taxi for the last leg.

    Whichever way you go, start with the flight. Compare cheap flights to Chicago, choose a neighborhood with our Chicago hotel search, read our first-timer’s guide to Chicago, and if a road trip is on the list, price the rental for those dates on our Chicago car rental page.

  • Things to Do in Chicago: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Things to Do in Chicago: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Chicago surprises people who have not been. Visitors expect a big Midwestern city of offices and winter wind, and they find instead the most beautiful skyline in America rising straight out of a river, a lakefront of beaches and parkland that runs for miles without a single private building on it, one of the three or four great art museums in the country, neighborhoods with more personality than most whole cities, and a food scene that goes far beyond the deep-dish pizza everyone arrives wanting to try. It is a city built to be walked and ridden: the ‘L’ rattles above the Loop, the Riverwalk runs beneath the bridges, and the Lakefront Trail is where half the city spends its summer evenings. This guide covers the sights that earn a day, the neighborhoods worth a half-day, the food, the music and the sports, the day trips that the trains make easy, and the practical details that turn a long weekend into a trip you will want to repeat.

    If you are still comparing cheap flights to Chicago, read this alongside our guides to the best time to fly to Chicago and whether you need a car (for the city itself, you probably do not). Between the three you can plan the whole trip.

    The Chicago skyline across the water from the Adler Planetarium
    The Chicago skyline from the Museum Campus, the best free view in the city (Photo: Sea Cow via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    Chicago at a glance for first-timers

    • Airports: two of them. O’Hare International (ORD), about 27 km (17 miles) northwest of downtown, is one of the busiest airports in the world and a hub for United and American; the CTA Blue Line runs from the terminal to the Loop around the clock. Midway (MDW), on the Southwest Side, is smaller, closer and mostly domestic, with the Orange Line at the door. See our O’Hare airport guide.
    • Getting around: the CTA’s ‘L’ trains and buses cover the city, and the Red and Blue Lines run 24 hours; tap a contactless card or phone at the turnstile. The Loop, River North, the Magnificent Mile and the lakefront are all walkable, and Divvy bikes are everywhere. Our car-versus-transit guide explains when a car helps.
    • Money: US dollars. Chicago’s combined sales tax is one of the highest of any big American city, a little over 10 percent, and it is added at the register rather than shown on the tag; hotel taxes are higher still. Tipping 18 to 20 percent in restaurants is expected.
    • Weather: four emphatic seasons: cold, windy winters, a late and changeable spring, warm and humid summers cooled by the lake, and a crisp, clear fall. Our month-by-month guide has the detail.
    • Where to stay: the Loop for the museums, Millennium Park and the theaters; River North and the Magnificent Mile for restaurants and shopping; the West Loop for the dining scene; Lincoln Park or Wicker Park for a neighborhood feel. Our Chicago hotel search covers them all.

    The Loop and Millennium Park

    The Loop, named for the ring of elevated tracks that circles it, is the business district and the historic core, and it is where the city’s reputation as the birthplace of the skyscraper was earned after the Great Fire of 1871. Start at Millennium Park, on its eastern edge, which is free and is the city’s front lawn: Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate, the polished steel sculpture everyone calls the Bean, reflects the skyline and the crowds; Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain projects the faces of Chicagoans onto two glass towers that spout water in summer; Frank Gehry’s Jay Pritzker Pavilion hosts free concerts on summer evenings; and the Lurie Garden is a quiet planted meadow in the middle of it all. In winter the McCormick Tribune ice rink opens beside the Bean. From there, walk the Loop’s streets for the architecture: the Rookery, with a light-filled lobby remodeled by Frank Lloyd Wright; the dark brick Monadnock Building; the untitled Picasso in Daley Plaza, Chagall’s Four Seasons mosaic a few blocks south and Calder’s red Flamingo in Federal Plaza. The Chicago Cultural Center, across Michigan Avenue from the park, is free and has what is claimed as the largest Tiffany glass dome in the world. For the view, the Willis Tower Skydeck, on the 103rd floor of the building that was the world’s tallest when it opened in 1973, has the Ledge, glass boxes that hang out over the street.

    The Chicago skyline reflected in Cloud Gate, the Bean, in Millennium Park
    Cloud Gate in Millennium Park, the sculpture every Chicagoan calls the Bean (Photo: Roman Boed from The Netherlands via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    The river: the architecture cruise and the Riverwalk

    If you do one paid thing in Chicago, make it an architecture river cruise. The Chicago River runs through the middle of downtown, and a ninety-minute boat trip up its main and branch channels passes more than a century of skyscrapers, from the Wrigley Building and the Gothic Tribune Tower to the corncob towers of Marina City and the glass curves of the newer residential towers, with a guide explaining how the city reinvented the tall building again and again. The Chicago Architecture Center runs the best-known tour and has a gallery and a large model of the city at its riverside home; several other operators leave from the docks near Michigan Avenue. On foot, the Riverwalk follows the south bank of the main branch for more than a mile from the lake toward the Loop’s western edge, with wine bars, kayak rentals and seating on the water beneath the bascule bridges, several of which still lift for sailboats in spring and fall. The DuSable Bridge on Michigan Avenue is the classic spot to stand, with the river canyon on one side and the start of the Magnificent Mile on the other.

    The lakefront, the Magnificent Mile and Navy Pier

    Chicago’s great civic decision was to keep its lakefront public, and the result is extraordinary: parks, beaches and a trail along Lake Michigan for most of the city’s length. The Lakefront Trail runs about 29 km (18 miles) along the shore, with separate paths for bikes and walkers on the busiest stretches; rent a Divvy bike and ride north from Grant Park past Oak Street Beach to Lincoln Park, and you will see the skyline from its best angle. In summer, North Avenue Beach and Oak Street Beach fill with volleyball, sunbathers and swimmers, a surreal sight with office towers a few hundred yards behind the sand. Grant Park, between the Loop and the lake, holds Buckingham Fountain, which runs from spring to fall with a water show at the top of every hour. The Magnificent Mile, North Michigan Avenue from the river to Oak Street, is the city’s grand shopping street, with the historic Water Tower, one of the few buildings to survive the 1871 fire, and 360 Chicago, the observation deck near the top of the former John Hancock Center, whose lake view many locals prefer to the Skydeck. Navy Pier, a short walk east, is touristy but fun with children, with the Centennial Wheel, boat tours and fireworks on summer evenings.

    The Chicago Lakefront Trail along Lake Michigan with the skyline behind
    The Lakefront Trail, about 18 miles of public shoreline and the best way to see the city by bike (Photo: AlphaBeta135 via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0)

    Neighborhoods worth a half-day

    River North and the West Loop

    River North, just north of the river, has the densest concentration of restaurants, galleries and hotels in the city. The West Loop, and especially Randolph Street and Fulton Market, is where Chicago’s dining reputation is made: former meatpacking warehouses turned into restaurants, food halls and hotels, with some of the most talked-about kitchens in the country within a few blocks of each other.

    Lincoln Park and Old Town

    North of downtown along the lake, Lincoln Park combines the park itself, with the free Lincoln Park Zoo and the glasshouse conservatory, with a leafy neighborhood of brownstones, bars and blues clubs. Old Town, just south, is home to The Second City, the improv theater that launched a remarkable share of American comedy.

    Wicker Park, Bucktown and Logan Square

    On the Blue Line northwest of the Loop, Wicker Park and Bucktown center on the six-way intersection of Milwaukee, North and Damen Avenues: vintage shops, record stores, bars and brunch. The 606, an elevated rail line turned into a trail, runs through both. Logan Square, a few stops farther, has the boulevards, the cocktail bars and the Sunday farmers’ market.

    Lakeview and Wrigleyville

    Home to Wrigley Field and the Cubs, and to the lively bars around it on game days; Northalsted, in Lakeview, is one of the oldest recognized LGBTQ neighborhoods in the country. Farther north, Andersonville keeps its Swedish heritage and a strip of independent shops, and Uptown has the Green Mill, a jazz club with Prohibition-era history and live music every night.

    Pilsen and Chinatown

    Pilsen, on the Lower West Side, is the historic heart of Mexican Chicago, with street murals, bakeries, taquerias and the free National Museum of Mexican Art. Chinatown, on the Red Line south of the Loop, has dim sum, bakeries and a riverside park with water taxis back downtown in summer.

    Hyde Park

    On the South Side by the lake, Hyde Park is home to the University of Chicago, Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House and the Museum of Science and Industry, and it is the site of the Obama Presidential Center in Jackson Park; check its opening status and ticketing before you go.

    Museums, culture and family attractions

    The Art Institute of Chicago, on Michigan Avenue at the edge of Millennium Park, is one of the great museums of the world, and it deserves at least half a day: Seurat’s A Sunday on La Grande Jatte, Hopper’s Nighthawks, Grant Wood’s American Gothic, one of the finest Impressionist collections outside Paris, the miniature Thorne Rooms, and Renzo Piano’s Modern Wing. The Museum Campus, on the lake south of Grant Park, groups three institutions within a short walk: the Field Museum, whose natural history halls hold SUE, one of the most complete Tyrannosaurus rex skeletons ever found; the Shedd Aquarium, with beluga whales and a vast Caribbean reef tank; and the Adler Planetarium, the first planetarium in the Western Hemisphere, with the best skyline view in the city from its front lawn. The Museum of Science and Industry in Hyde Park, housed in a surviving building from the 1893 World’s Fair, has a captured German U-boat, a replica coal mine and hands-on exhibits that keep children busy for hours. The Museum of Contemporary Art near the Water Tower and the free Garfield Park Conservatory on the West Side round out the list. For performance, the Chicago Symphony Orchestra at Symphony Center and the Lyric Opera are world-class, the Goodman and Steppenwolf lead a deep theater scene, and the Broadway houses in the Loop host the touring hits. For what is on stage and in the arenas during your dates, our Chicago events page lists concerts, shows and games.

    The blues, jazz and the summer festivals

    Chicago invented electric blues, when musicians from the Mississippi Delta plugged in on the South Side after the Second World War, and the city still has clubs where you can hear it most nights of the week: Buddy Guy’s Legends in the South Loop and Kingston Mines and B.L.U.E.S. in Lincoln Park are the best known. Jazz has the Green Mill in Uptown and a handful of rooms downtown. In summer the music moves outdoors and much of it is free. The Chicago Blues Festival takes over Millennium Park in June, the Grant Park Music Festival gives free classical concerts at the Pritzker Pavilion through the summer, and the Chicago Jazz Festival fills Labor Day weekend. Lollapalooza, one of the biggest music festivals in the country, occupies Grant Park for four days in late July or early August. The Pride Parade on the last Sunday of June, the Air and Water Show over North Avenue Beach in August, and neighborhood street festivals nearly every summer weekend make the season one long party. In March, the city dyes the river green for the St. Patrick’s Day parade weekend, and in November the Magnificent Mile Lights Festival opens the holidays, with the German-style Christkindlmarket in Daley Plaza running until Christmas Eve.

    Sports

    Chicago is one of the great sports towns, with two teams in baseball and a fan base that fills bars from April to February. Wrigley Field, home of the Cubs since 1916, is the second-oldest ballpark in the major leagues, with ivy on the outfield walls, a hand-turned scoreboard and rooftop bleachers across the street; a day game there is one of the classic American experiences, even for people who do not follow baseball. The White Sox play at Rate Field on the South Side, on the Red Line, with cheaper tickets and excellent ballpark food. The Bears play football at Soldier Field on the lakefront from September to January; the Bulls and the Blackhawks share the United Center on the West Side, where the Michael Jordan statue stands outside; the Fire play soccer at Soldier Field and the Sky play basketball at Wintrust Arena. Check what is on sale in Chicago for your dates before you book flights.

    What to eat, and where

    Start with the classics, and then go further. Deep-dish pizza, baked in a tall pan with the cheese under the tomato sauce, is the famous one, and Lou Malnati’s, Giordano’s and Pizzeria Uno, which claims to have invented it in 1943, all have their loyalists; allow 45 minutes for it to bake. Locals, it should be said, eat more tavern-style pizza, a cracker-thin crust cut into squares. The Chicago-style hot dog comes on a poppy-seed bun with yellow mustard, onion, bright green relish, tomato, a pickle spear, sport peppers and celery salt, and never ketchup. The Italian beef, thin-sliced roast beef soaked in its juices on a roll with sweet peppers or hot giardiniera, is the city’s great sandwich. Beyond that, Chicago’s food is its neighborhoods: tacos and carnitas in Pilsen and Little Village, the Puerto Rican jibarito in Humboldt Park, Vietnamese on Argyle Street in Uptown, Korean and Middle Eastern on the North Side, Polish in Avondale, and some of the most ambitious fine dining in the country in the West Loop. Grab a bag of cheese-and-caramel popcorn, the “Chicago mix”, on the Magnificent Mile, and eat brunch in Wicker Park or Logan Square.

    Chicago through the seasons

    Chicago’s seasons are so distinct that it can feel like four different cities. Winter (December to March) is cold, windy and sometimes brutal, with lake-effect snow and wind chills that keep locals indoors; it is also when the museums are quiet, the theaters and the Bulls and Blackhawks are in season, the rink in Millennium Park is open, and hotels are at their cheapest. The Pedway, a network of underground walkways beneath the Loop, helps. Spring (April to May) arrives late and unevenly; the lake keeps the shore cool while the suburbs warm up, and the Cubs’ season opens in April weather that can include snow. Summer (June to August) is the reason people fall for the city: the beaches, the Lakefront Trail, the free concerts, the festivals, the patios and rooftop bars, and day games at Wrigley. It can be hot and humid, with thunderstorms, but the lake breeze helps. Fall (September to November) is crisp and clear, with the marathon in October, Open House Chicago opening the doors of buildings across the city, and the Bears at Soldier Field. Our month-by-month guide has the fare patterns that go with each season.

    Chicago with kids

    Chicago is excellent with children. The Museum Campus alone fills two days: the dinosaurs at the Field Museum, the belugas and the dolphins at the Shedd, and the sky shows at the Adler. The Museum of Science and Industry is a full day on its own, and the Chicago Children’s Museum is on Navy Pier, alongside the Centennial Wheel and summer boat rides. Lincoln Park Zoo is free, compact and easy with a stroller, and the farm-in-the-zoo section is a hit with small children. In summer, the Crown Fountain in Millennium Park doubles as a splash pad, the Maggie Daley Park next door has a climbing wall, play garden and, in winter, a skating ribbon, and the beaches have lifeguards from late May to Labor Day. A Cubs day game is a rite of passage. Kids ride the ‘L’ for free under seven, and the elevated ride around the Loop on the Brown Line is an attraction in itself. For families planning trips beyond the city, our family car rental guide covers the vehicle question.

    Chicago on a budget

    A remarkable amount of Chicago’s best is free: Millennium Park and the Bean, the Lakefront Trail and the beaches, the Riverwalk, the Lincoln Park Zoo and Conservatory, the Garfield Park Conservatory, the Chicago Cultural Center, the National Museum of Mexican Art, the Loop’s public art, and the summer concerts in Millennium and Grant Parks. The big museums offer free days for Illinois residents but not for visitors, so budget for them, and consider a multi-attraction pass if you plan to see four or more. Eat well for less on hot dogs, Italian beef, tacos in Pilsen and dim sum in Chinatown. A multi-day CTA pass makes transit almost free per ride, and hotel rates from January to March are among the lowest of any big American city. Compare rates by neighborhood on our Chicago hotel search.

    Day trips from Chicago

    Oak Park, on the Green Line or Metra just west of the city, has the largest collection of Frank Lloyd Wright buildings anywhere, including his Home and Studio and Unity Temple; the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust runs the tours. Evanston, on the Purple Line or Metra north, has the Northwestern University campus on the lake, and neighboring Wilmette has the domed Bahá’í House of Worship; the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe is on the same Metra line. Indiana Dunes National Park, about an hour east on the South Shore Line train, has beaches and giant sand dunes on the southern shore of Lake Michigan; the National Park Service has the trail and beach details. Milwaukee, about 145 km (90 miles) north and 90 minutes by Amtrak, has Calatrava’s winged art museum on the lake, the Harley-Davidson Museum and its own brewing tradition. By car, Starved Rock State Park, about two hours southwest, has canyons and waterfalls along the Illinois River, and Lake Geneva in Wisconsin and Galena in the far northwest of the state are classic weekend escapes. For longer road trips, see our route guides for driving from Chicago to Minneapolis and Chicago to Detroit, or price a car on our Chicago car rental page. Choose Chicago, the city’s official tourism site, covers the region.

    The Chicago Riverwalk beneath the towers of the Chicago River
    The Riverwalk along the main branch of the Chicago River, with the Wrigley Building beyond (Photo: MK Feeney via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    Two sample itineraries

    Three days, no car

    Day one: Millennium Park and the Bean in the morning, the Art Institute until mid-afternoon, then the architecture river cruise and a walk along the Riverwalk, with dinner in River North. Day two: the Museum Campus in the morning, lunch in Chinatown by water taxi or the Red Line, the Skydeck or 360 Chicago at sunset, and deep-dish pizza. Day three: a Divvy ride up the Lakefront Trail to Lincoln Park and the zoo, an afternoon in Wicker Park, and a blues club or a show at Second City at night.

    Five days, with the neighborhoods and a day out

    Add a day in Hyde Park for the Museum of Science and Industry and the Robie House, a Cubs game at Wrigley in season, a dinner on Randolph Street in the West Loop, and a day trip to Oak Park by the Green Line or to the Indiana Dunes on the South Shore Line.

    Practical details

    • Transit: tap a contactless card or phone at any ‘L’ turnstile or bus, or buy a Ventra card or multi-day pass. The CTA has maps and service alerts; our transit-versus-car guide goes into detail.
    • From O’Hare: the Blue Line to the Loop in about 45 minutes, a taxi or ride-hail, or a rental from the multi-modal facility. The Chicago airports’ site covers both O’Hare and Midway.
    • Weather: layers in every season, a serious coat, hat and gloves from December to March, and sunscreen for the beach in summer. NOAA’s National Weather Service office for Chicago has the forecast, and “cooler by the lake” is a real thing.
    • Time zone: Central, one hour behind New York and two ahead of Los Angeles.
    • Entry requirements: visitors from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before boarding; most others need a visa. The State Department’s travel site is the authoritative source.
    • Safety: the areas visitors spend their time in, downtown, the lakefront and the North Side neighborhoods, are busy and generally safe; use ordinary big-city awareness late at night, and on the ‘L’ late at night ride in a car with other passengers.

    Frequently asked questions

    How many days do you need in Chicago?

    Three full days covers the Loop, the Art Institute, the river cruise, the Museum Campus and one or two neighborhoods; add a day or two for Hyde Park, a ball game and a day trip.

    What is the number one thing to do in Chicago?

    The architecture river cruise, followed closely by the Art Institute. In summer, add a bike ride along the Lakefront Trail.

    Is Chicago walkable?

    Very, in the Loop, River North, the Magnificent Mile, the lakefront and the North Side neighborhoods, and the ‘L’ links them. The grid is logical and every address is numbered from State and Madison.

    Do I need a car in Chicago?

    Not for the city, where parking is expensive and transit is good. Rent one for Starved Rock, Galena or a road trip, and only for those days.

    Is Chicago expensive?

    Cheaper than New York or San Francisco, especially for hotels outside summer and big convention weeks, but taxes are high. Much of the best of the city is free.

    What food is Chicago known for?

    Deep-dish pizza, the Chicago-style hot dog and the Italian beef sandwich, plus tavern-style thin crust, cheese-and-caramel popcorn and an outstanding restaurant scene in the West Loop.

    Ready to go? Compare flights to Chicago, find a place to stay with our Chicago hotel search, and if a road trip is on the list, price a rental car for those days.

  • Minneapolis: Should You Rent a Car or Rely on Public Transit?

    Minneapolis: Should You Rent a Car or Rely on Public Transit?

    Minneapolis is one of the few mid-sized American cities where a visitor can genuinely get by without a car. A light-rail line runs from both airport terminals straight into downtown, a second line connects downtown with the University of Minnesota and downtown Saint Paul, the core is compact and walkable, and in winter the skyways let you cross dozens of blocks without stepping outside. Add a superb bike network for the lakes and the river, and a city break here is easy on transit. But the Twin Cities are also a spread-out metro built around freeways, the buses thin out beyond the core, and the places many visitors want to see beyond the city, Stillwater, Duluth, the North Shore and the lake country, are car trips. Winter adds its own rules, from snow emergency towing to ice on I-35. This guide explains how the city is laid out, how transit and fares work, what driving here is really like in every season, and gives you a straightforward way to decide.

    The short answer

    Skip the car if you are staying downtown, in the North Loop or near the river for a city break, a conference, a concert or a game, and your plans are the riverfront, the museums, the lakes, the Mall of America and Saint Paul; the Blue and Green Lines, the skyways, a bike and the occasional ride-hail will cover all of that, and you will save on downtown parking. Rent a car if Duluth, the North Shore, Stillwater, the lake country or the river towns are on the itinerary, if you are staying in the suburbs or with family, if you are traveling with young children and gear in winter, or if Minneapolis is one stop on a Midwest road trip. And for most visitors who want both, the hybrid, a few car-free days in the city and a rental for the days out, is the best value. Compare rental rates for any of these plans on our Minneapolis car rental page.

    How Minneapolis is laid out

    The Mississippi runs through the middle of Minneapolis from north to southeast. Downtown sits on the west bank at St. Anthony Falls, with the North Loop warehouse district on its northwestern edge beside Target Field, and the stadium district of Downtown East on the other side. Across the river are Northeast, the arts and brewery quarter, and the main campus of the University of Minnesota. South Minneapolis, a large grid of numbered streets and named avenues, holds Eat Street, Uptown, Lake Street, the Chain of Lakes and Minnehaha Falls. Saint Paul, the state capital, is about 16 km (10 miles) east along I-94, and the airport and the Mall of America sit in between, to the south. A ring of interstates, I-494 and I-694, circles the whole metro, and I-35 splits in two, running through Minneapolis as I-35W and through Saint Paul as I-35E. The inner city is compact and well served; the suburbs beyond it assume a car.

    Hotels cluster downtown along Nicollet Mall and near the convention center, in the North Loop, by the river at St. Anthony Main, near the University, in downtown Saint Paul, and in Bloomington near the airport and the Mall of America, which is also on the Blue Line. Our Minneapolis hotel search lets you compare them.

    Getting in from the airport

    Minneapolis-Saint Paul International (MSP) is about 16 km (10 miles) south of downtown Minneapolis, and it is one of the best-connected airports in the country by rail. The METRO Blue Line light rail stops at both terminals and runs to downtown Minneapolis in about 25 minutes for a standard transit fare, continuing to Target Field station in the North Loop; the ride between Terminal 1 and Terminal 2 is free, which matters because the terminals are not within walking distance of each other. For Saint Paul, a Metro Transit bus runs from Terminal 1 to downtown Saint Paul, or you can take the Blue Line downtown and change to the Green Line. Taxis and ride-hail pick up at both terminals, and the drive to either downtown takes about 20 minutes outside rush hour. The rental counters are in the parking ramps beside each terminal. Check the airport’s site for current ground-transport details and which airlines use which terminal; our MSP airport guide covers the layout.

    A METRO Blue Line light-rail train in downtown Minneapolis
    The METRO light rail: the Blue Line runs from both airport terminals to downtown in about 25 minutes (Photo: Tony Webster from Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    Minneapolis transit, explained

    Metro Transit runs the light rail, the buses and the rapid-bus lines across the Twin Cities. For a visitor based in the core it is entirely adequate; its limitation, as in most American cities, is that service away from the main corridors is less frequent than a visitor from Chicago or New York would expect, and evenings and weekends are thinner still.

    The light rail

    Two lines. The Blue Line runs from Target Field through downtown along 5th Street, then south past Cedar-Riverside, Lake Street and Minnehaha Falls (50th Street/Minnehaha Park station) to Fort Snelling, both airport terminals, and the Mall of America in Bloomington. The Green Line runs from Target Field through downtown on the same tracks, across the river to the University of Minnesota, and then along University Avenue, past the Hmong and Vietnamese restaurants, the soccer stadium and the State Capitol, to Union Depot in downtown Saint Paul, in around 45 minutes end to end. An extension of the Green Line to the southwestern suburbs has been under construction for years; check Metro Transit’s site for its status when you travel. Trains run from early morning until after midnight, with more limited service in the small hours.

    Buses and rapid buses

    Buses fill in the rest, including the routes to the Walker, Mia, Uptown and the lakes. A growing network of rapid-bus lines, identified by letters and colors, runs on the busiest corridors with fewer stops and ticket machines at the stations. Frequencies drop in the evenings and on weekends outside the core routes; check times before relying on a bus for a late return.

    Fares and tickets

    Buy tickets from the machines at any light-rail or rapid-bus station, which take cards and cash, or use the Metro Transit app on your phone; a reloadable Go-To card is worth it for a longer stay, and day passes are available. A single fare includes transfers between trains and buses for a set period. The light rail works on proof of payment: there are no turnstiles, so buy before you board, because inspectors check and the fines are steep. Fares are modest by big-city standards; check Metro Transit’s site for current prices before you go.

    Accessibility

    Every light-rail station is step-free, trains have level boarding, and buses are low-floor with ramps; the skyways are accessible by elevator from most connected buildings.

    Beyond Metro Transit

    • Walking and the skyways. Downtown, the North Loop and the riverfront are walkable, and the skyway system, roughly 15 km (9.5 miles) of enclosed, heated bridges and corridors one story above the street, connects some 80 blocks of downtown, including hotels, restaurants, the arenas and the convention center. The skyways are owned by the buildings they cross, so hours vary: most are open from early morning into the evening on weekdays, with shorter hours on weekends. Saint Paul has its own, smaller system.
    • Bikes. Minneapolis is one of the most bike-friendly cities in the country, with separated paths around the Chain of Lakes, along both banks of the Mississippi, and on the Midtown Greenway, a former rail corridor across South Minneapolis. Shared bikes and e-scooters are widely available in the warmer months.
    • Taxis and ride-hail. The main apps and licensed taxis operate across the Twin Cities; for a group, a short ride to Uptown, Northeast or the lakes is competitive with transit and quicker to the places off the rail lines.
    • The State Fair buses. In late August, express buses and free park-and-ride shuttles run to the fairgrounds from across the metro, and they are far easier than driving and parking at the fair.
    • Intercity trains and buses. Amtrak runs daily trains between Chicago and Saint Paul’s Union Depot, which is on the Green Line, via Milwaukee; intercity buses connect the Twin Cities with Duluth, Chicago and other Midwest cities.
    An enclosed skyway over 3rd Avenue South in downtown Minneapolis in winter
    The skyways: about 15 km (9.5 miles) of heated walkways above downtown, which is how Minneapolis gets around in January (Photo: Tony Webster from Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Driving in the Twin Cities: what it is really like

    By the standards of the biggest American cities, the Twin Cities are easy to drive: a logical freeway network, plenty of parking outside the downtowns, and drivers who are, on the whole, courteous to the point of indecision at four-way stops. The frustrations are specific. Rush hour on I-94 between the two downtowns, on I-35W, on I-494 near the airport and on the Crosstown (Highway 62) is slow every weekday morning and afternoon. Construction season runs from spring thaw to late fall and closes lanes, ramps and sometimes entire stretches of freeway for weeks. Event traffic around Target Field, U.S. Bank Stadium and Target Center snarls the edges of downtown before and after games. And winter changes everything, from how you drive to where you can park.

    Parking

    Downtown Minneapolis parking is expensive by Midwest standards, though well below Chicago’s: hotels charge a substantial nightly fee, often valet-only, and the public ramps raise their rates on game and concert nights near the stadiums. On-street meters are common downtown and in the busier neighborhoods, many run into the evening, and you can pay at the meter or by app. Outside the core, parking at the lakes, Minnehaha Falls, the Mall of America and the suburbs is easy and often free, although the lakeside lots fill on summer weekends.

    Rules and conditions worth knowing

    • Snow emergencies. After a significant snowfall, Minneapolis declares a snow emergency with a three-day parking rotation so the plows can clear the streets: from 9 p.m. on day one, no parking on marked Snow Emergency Routes; from 8 a.m. on day two, no parking on the even-numbered side of other streets; from 8 a.m. on day three, no parking on the odd-numbered side. Cars left in the way are ticketed and towed, and visitors are caught every winter. The City of Minneapolis announces emergencies on its site and through text alerts, and Saint Paul runs its own similar system. The simple fix is to park in a hotel lot or a ramp when snow is forecast.
    • Winter tires are not required in Minnesota, and rental cars usually come on all-seasons, which is generally fine in the plowed metro. Leave extra following distance, watch for black ice on bridges and ramps, and keep the tank at least half full in the cold.
    • Headlights are required whenever it is raining or snowing, not just at night.
    • Hands-free law. Holding a phone while driving is illegal in Minnesota; use a mount and voice control.
    • Express lanes on I-394, I-35W and I-35E charge solo drivers a variable toll electronically through a transponder; unless your rental includes one, stay in the regular lanes. Otherwise there are no toll roads in Minnesota.
    • Right turns on red are permitted after a full stop unless signed otherwise.
    • Deer are common on rural highways at dawn and dusk, especially in the fall.
    A snowstorm in Minneapolis
    After a big snowfall, snow emergency rules decide where you can park, and cars in the wrong place are towed (Photo: Tony Webster from Portland, Oregon, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    When renting a car makes sense

    • Duluth and the North Shore. Two and a half hours north on I-35, then up Highway 61 along Lake Superior to Gooseberry Falls, Split Rock Lighthouse and beyond; there is no practical way to do it without a car.
    • Stillwater and the St. Croix Valley, about 45 minutes east, and the river towns of Red Wing and Wabasha to the south along the Mississippi bluffs.
    • Paisley Park, the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum and the western suburbs, which are poorly served by transit.
    • The lake country. A weekend “up north” at a cabin or resort in the Brainerd lakes or beyond is a Minnesota institution, and a car is essential.
    • Family in the suburbs. The Twin Cities suburbs are spread out and designed around driving; a car earns its keep daily.
    • Midwest road trips. Minneapolis is a natural stop on a loop through Wisconsin and Chicago; our Chicago to Minneapolis route guide covers the drive, and our Chicago car-versus-transit guide covers the other end.

    If any of those apply, our rental car booking tips cover insurance, deposits and the questions to ask at the counter, and our family car rental guide looks at vehicle choice.

    When it does not

    • You are staying downtown, in the North Loop or by the river and your plans are the city.
    • You are in town for a conference, a game or a concert, when downtown parking is at its worst and the light rail stops at the stadium doors.
    • You are visiting the State Fair, where the express buses and shuttles beat driving and parking.
    • You are traveling solo or as a couple and the rental, insurance and hotel parking add up to more than the trains and a few rides.

    The hybrid plan for a city-plus-day-trips visit

    Go car-free for the city days and rent for the days out, and think carefully about where you pick up. Renting at the airport makes sense if you are heading straight out of town, or staying in Bloomington or the suburbs, because the freeways are minutes from the terminal and you never enter downtown traffic. Renting from a downtown or neighborhood branch makes sense if you are spending the first nights in the city, because you avoid the airport fees and the hotel parking on the nights you are not using the car. A pattern that works well: the Blue Line into the city, two or three car-free days, pick up a rental downtown, drive to Stillwater or Duluth for the days out, and return the car at the airport on the way to the flight home. Minnesota adds a rental-vehicle tax on top of the airport fees, so the gap between an airport rental and a downtown one can be noticeable; compare the day rates on our Minneapolis car rental page against a full-trip rental and the difference is usually obvious.

    A worked cost comparison

    Numbers change with the season and the booking window, so treat this as a method rather than a quote, and check current rates before deciding. For a four-night city break downtown for two people, the car-free version costs two Blue Line rides from the airport and back, a couple of transit day passes, and perhaps two or three evening ride-hail trips; the rental version adds four days of a compact car, four nights of hotel parking at downtown rates, fuel and the airport fees and taxes. The transit option wins easily. For the same four nights with a day in Stillwater, the hybrid version adds one day’s rental picked up downtown, fuel and parking in Stillwater, which is far cheaper than keeping a car for the whole stay. For a week with two nights in Duluth and on the North Shore, a rental for the whole trip starts to make sense, especially for a family, and the airport pickup is the simplest. Run the rental rates for your dates on our Minneapolis car rental page and put them beside the transit costs before you choose.

    Traffic on Interstate 35W in Minneapolis
    Interstate 35W, the main north-south freeway through Minneapolis (Photo: Gabriel Vanslette via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0)

    Driving north to Duluth and the North Shore in each season

    The drive from the Twin Cities to Duluth is about 250 km (155 miles) on I-35, a straightforward divided interstate through farmland, forest and lake country that takes about two and a half hours; from Duluth, Highway 61 runs northeast along the shore of Lake Superior toward Two Harbors, Gooseberry Falls, Split Rock Lighthouse and, eventually, the Canadian border. In summer, the problems are traffic and parking: northbound on Friday afternoon and southbound on Sunday afternoon, much of the metro is heading to and from the cabin, and the state park lots on the North Shore fill by late morning on weekends. Leave early, or go mid-week. In fall, the color along the North Shore usually peaks from late September into early October, and those weekends bring summer-level traffic and full hotels in Duluth and the shore towns; book ahead. In winter, I-35 is plowed and generally open, but snow and blowing snow can reduce visibility sharply in open country, Duluth’s streets climb steep hills from the lake, and Lake Superior can generate its own snow squalls; check Minnesota 511 before you leave, carry a winter kit, and keep the tank full. In spring, the thaw brings potholes and frost-heaved roads, and the waterfalls along the shore are at their most powerful as the snow melts.

    Decision table

    Your tripRecommendationWhy
    City break downtown, couple or soloNo carThe Blue Line from the airport, the skyways and a bike cover it; parking is expensive
    Conference, game or concertNo carEvent parking is costly and the light rail stops at the stadiums
    State Fair visitNo carExpress buses and park-and-ride shuttles beat driving
    City plus a day in Stillwater or the river townsHybrid: rent downtown for one dayCar-free city days, car for the day out
    Duluth and the North ShoreRent, ideally at the airportI-35 is minutes from the terminal; the shore needs a car
    Family visit to the suburbsRent for the whole staySuburban distances make the car worthwhile daily
    Winter trip with young childrenRent, and park in a ramp or hotel lotGear, cold and snow emergency rules all argue for a garage
    Midwest road tripRent (consider one-way from Chicago)Minneapolis is a stop, not the destination

    Money-saving tips for both options

    • On transit: ride the Blue Line from the airport rather than a taxi; buy a day pass for a heavy sightseeing day; use the free ride between terminals if your airline is in the other one.
    • On a rental: compare airport and downtown pickup, book early for summer weekends, the State Fair and fall color season, decline extras you already have through a credit card or home policy (check first), and stay out of the express lanes without a transponder.
    • On the hotel: if you are renting, price the parking fee into the room rate, and consider staying in Saint Paul or Bloomington, where parking is cheaper and the light rail still reaches downtown Minneapolis.
    • On timing: avoid I-94 and I-35W in the weekday peaks and I-35 north on summer Friday afternoons; our best time to fly to Minneapolis guide lists the busiest weekends.
    • On winter: check for snow emergencies every evening after a snowfall, because a tow and impound fee will wipe out anything you saved on the rental.

    Frequently asked questions

    Is it worth renting a car in Minneapolis?

    For Duluth, the North Shore, Stillwater, the suburbs or a road trip, yes. For a city break based downtown or in the North Loop, no; the light rail, the skyways and a bike are enough.

    Is Minneapolis public transit good for tourists?

    Good within the core: the Blue Line reaches the airport, Minnehaha Falls and the Mall of America, and the Green Line reaches the University and Saint Paul. Buses cover the lakes and neighborhoods, less frequently.

    How do I get from MSP airport to downtown Minneapolis?

    The Blue Line light rail from either terminal in about 25 minutes, or a taxi or ride-hail in about 20 minutes outside rush hour.

    Can I get to Saint Paul without a car?

    Yes. The Green Line runs from downtown Minneapolis to downtown Saint Paul in around 45 minutes, and a bus runs from the airport’s Terminal 1.

    What is a snow emergency?

    A declaration after heavy snow that sets a three-day rotation of parking restrictions so the plows can clear the streets. Cars parked in the wrong place are ticketed and towed, so park in a ramp or hotel lot when snow is forecast.

    Are the skyways open all the time?

    No. They belong to the buildings they connect, so hours vary; most are open from early morning into the evening on weekdays, with shorter hours on weekends.

    Do I need winter tires to drive in Minnesota?

    No, and rentals usually come on all-seasons. Drive slowly on snow, leave plenty of distance, and check road conditions before heading north in winter.

    Whichever way you go, start with the flight. Compare cheap flights to Minneapolis, choose a neighborhood with our Minneapolis hotel search, and if Duluth or the St. Croix are on the list, price the rental for those dates on our Minneapolis car rental page.

  • Best Time to Fly to Minneapolis: Seasons, Weather & Prices

    Best Time to Fly to Minneapolis: Seasons, Weather & Prices

    Minneapolis is a city of extremes, and its airfares follow the thermometer more closely than almost anywhere in America. It has the coldest winters of any major U.S. metro, with snow on the ground from December into March and cold snaps that push temperatures far below zero Fahrenheit, and summers that are warm, green and so good that the whole Upper Midwest heads for the lakes. Between them sit a short spring and a long, golden fall. On top of the weather comes a calendar with a few very sharp peaks: the Minnesota State Fair, twelve days at the end of summer that draw close to two million people; the Christmas and New Year weeks; and the stadium concerts, Vikings games and conventions that can fill downtown hotels on a given weekend. The airport adds its own twist: MSP is a major Delta hub and the home base of Sun Country, which means excellent nonstop coverage but fares that respond sharply to competition. This guide walks through the weather month by month, the fare seasons, the events that move prices, and how to handle the airport.

    The short answer

    For the best balance of weather and price, go in late May to mid-June, when the lakes and patios open before the summer peak, or in September to mid-October, when the weather is often the most settled of the year and the fall color arrives. The cheapest fares and hotel rates come in January and February, after the New Year week, and in November before Thanksgiving; this is when the city is cold, bright and quiet, and hotels are hungry. March and April are also good value for a city break, if you can live with the slush. The most expensive stretches are July and August, especially the State Fair fortnight that ends on Labor Day, the Christmas and New Year weeks, and any weekend with a big stadium concert or convention downtown. Whatever you choose, run a flexible-date search on our Minneapolis flights page; a shift of a few days can change the fare band entirely.

    Rides on the midway at the Minnesota State Fair
    The Minnesota State Fair, twelve days ending on Labor Day that fill hotels across the metro (Photo: Xopher Smith from minneapolis, mn, usa via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    Minneapolis weather, season by season

    Minneapolis sits in the middle of the continent, far from any ocean, and it gets the full force of both the Arctic air that pours south in winter and the warm, humid air that flows up from the Gulf in summer. Winters are long and cold, with around 130 cm (50 inches) of snow in a typical season and Arctic outbreaks that bring wind chills of -34 °C (-30 °F) or lower; spring comes late and fast; summers are warm to hot, with thunderstorms; and fall is crisp and clear. The figures below are approximate seasonal patterns based on the long-term climate normals from NOAA’s National Weather Service office for the Twin Cities; check the current forecast before you pack, because a winter week can swing between a thaw and a deep freeze.

    MonthTypical daytime highTypical overnight lowWhat it feels likeFare pressure
    Januaryaround -5 °C (23 °F)around -13 °C (8 °F)The coldest month; snow cover, bright sun, and Arctic cold snaps well below 0 °FLow, except the first days of the month
    Februaryaround -2 °C (28 °F)around -11 °C (13 °F)Still deep winter, with longer days; the Winter Carnival and pond hockey seasonLow
    Marcharound 5 °C (41 °F)around -4 °C (25 °F)Thaw and refreeze; big snowstorms are still possibleLow to moderate
    Aprilaround 13 °C (56 °F)around 3 °C (37 °F)Unpredictable; the lake ice goes out, snow is possible early in the monthModerate
    Mayaround 21 °C (69 °F)around 9 °C (49 °F)Spring in a rush; trees leaf out and the patios openModerate; rises for Memorial Day
    Junearound 26 °C (78 °F)around 15 °C (60 °F)Long, green days; the wettest month, with thunderstormsModerate to high
    Julyaround 28 °C (83 °F)around 18 °C (64 °F)Warm to hot and sometimes humid; lake season at its peakHigh
    Augustaround 27 °C (80 °F)around 17 °C (62 °F)Warm; the State Fair closes out the summerHigh, peaking for the State Fair
    Septemberaround 22 °C (72 °F)around 12 °C (53 °F)Often the most pleasant month; warm days, cool nightsModerate, falling after Labor Day
    Octoberaround 15 °C (58 °F)around 4 °C (40 °F)Crisp; fall color peaks early in the month; first frostModerate
    Novemberaround 6 °C (42 °F)around -3 °C (27 °F)Gray and cooling fast; first lasting snow usually arrivesLow, except Thanksgiving
    Decemberaround -2 °C (28 °F)around -10 °C (14 °F)Winter proper, with snow cover and holiday lightsLow until mid-month, then peak

    Three things the table cannot show. First, the cold snaps: most winters bring a spell of several days when the temperature stays below 0 °F (-18 °C) around the clock and the wind chill falls far lower, and the National Weather Service issues cold warnings; exposed skin can freeze in minutes. This is when the skyways earn their keep. Second, the sun: Minneapolis winters are cold but often bright, and a still, sunny day at -10 °C feels far better than the number suggests. Third, summer storms: June and July thunderstorms can be severe, with heavy rain, hail and the occasional tornado warning, and they can ground flights at MSP for an hour or two in the afternoon or evening.

    How Minneapolis fare seasons work

    Three calendars drive seats into Minneapolis: the weather, which makes summer the city’s high season and winter its low one; the events calendar, with the State Fair, the stadiums and the Minneapolis Convention Center filling hotels on particular dates; and the local travel pattern, because in winter the planes out of MSP are full of Minnesotans heading for Florida, Arizona and Mexico, which pushes up fares on those routes but leaves the flights into the city relatively quiet. The result is a warm-season plateau from June to early September with a State Fair spike at the end, a cheap and quiet winter with a Christmas spike in the middle, and two shoulder seasons where the weather is good and the prices are not.

    Peak season

    June to Labor Day, plus roughly December 18 to January 3. July and August are the busiest months for leisure visitors, with the lakes, the ballpark and the festivals at their best, and families from across the region filling the downtown hotels on weekends. The State Fair, the twelve days ending on Labor Day, is the sharpest spike of the year for hotel rates across the metro. If you must travel in peak, book early, fly mid-week, and price the hotel before the flight.

    Shoulder season

    Mid-April to May and September to October. Late May and early June give you the city waking up after winter, with lakes, patios and ball games; September and early October give you the most reliable weather of the year and the fall color. Watch Memorial Day weekend, Labor Day, the Twin Cities Marathon weekend in early October, and home Vikings weekends, which can lift downtown hotel rates.

    Low season

    November before Thanksgiving, early December, and January to March outside the holiday weeks. Fares into MSP are at their lowest, the city is cold, bright and uncrowded, and the museums, theaters and arenas are in full swing. Pack for real cold and build a weather buffer into connections through other hubs.

    As elsewhere, mid-week departures and early or late flights usually price below Friday and Sunday afternoons on the same route, and a search across a whole month reveals cheaper pairs of dates close to your first choice. Our guide to the best times to book explains how to read those patterns.

    Minneapolis month by month

    January

    The coldest month and, after the first few days, one of the cheapest to fly in. Highs usually sit well below freezing, and at least one Arctic outbreak is normal. The city carries on regardless: the skyways connect downtown, the frozen lakes fill with skaters, pond hockey players and ice-fishing houses, Theodore Wirth Park has cross-country skiing and tubing, and the Saint Paul Winter Carnival begins in late January. The Timberwolves and the Wild are in season, and theater tickets are easier to find than at any other time.

    February

    Similar weather with noticeably more daylight, and low fares throughout. The Winter Carnival runs into early February, the Loppet ski festival fills Theodore Wirth Park around the same time, and it is an excellent month for a museum-theater-and-food trip with a few hours on the ice for good measure.

    March

    Thaw and refreeze, with at least one big snowstorm in many years. Fares into the city stay low, although Minnesota’s school spring breaks push up the price of flights from MSP to warm-weather destinations. The high-school hockey and basketball tournaments fill arenas and some hotels in March, and the end of the month usually brings the first real sign of spring.

    April

    The most changeable month: 20 °C (68 °F) one day and snow the next. The ice goes out on the lakes, the Twins open at Target Field in hats and gloves, and hotel rates are still well below summer levels. Good for a city break; not ideal for the lakes.

    May

    Spring in a rush. Trees leaf out, the paths around the lakes fill, the patios in the North Loop and Northeast open, and Art-A-Whirl brings open studios to Northeast. Fares are moderate, and the first three weeks of May are one of the best value windows of the year before Memorial Day lifts prices.

    June

    Long, green days, the wettest month, and the start of peak season. Twin Cities Pride fills Loring Park in late June, the Lake Harriet bandshell concerts begin, and fares step up from mid-month as schools finish. Early June is the value play.

    July

    Peak summer: warm to hot, occasionally humid, and the lakes at their best. The Aquatennial, with fireworks over the river, fills the downtown calendar; the Fourth of July brings more fireworks; and outdoor concerts and Twins games fill the evenings. Hotel rates are high on weekends and fares are at their summer level.

    August

    Warm, with the Minnesota Fringe Festival early in the month and the Minnesota State Fair from late August through Labor Day. The fair is one of the largest in the country, drawing close to two million visitors, and it fills hotel rooms across the whole metro; the State Fair’s site has dates. Book the hotel first, and early.

    September

    The month many locals would send you to: warm afternoons, cool nights, lower humidity, and the summer crowds gone after Labor Day. Fall color begins up north late in the month, the Vikings season starts, and fares are moderate and falling.

    October

    Crisp days and fall color along the Mississippi and the lakes, usually peaking in the metro in early-to-mid October. The Twin Cities Marathon in early October fills hotels for one weekend, and the MEA break, when most Minnesota schools close for a long weekend in mid-to-late October, is a busy family travel weekend. Otherwise, prices are moderate and the weather is often excellent until the end of the month.

    November

    Gray, cooling fast, and cheap. The first lasting snow usually arrives, the holiday lights switch on late in the month, and fares and hotel rates are at their annual low apart from the Thanksgiving weekend, when fares on the busiest days rise sharply.

    December

    Two months in one. The first half continues November’s pricing, with snow on the ground, holiday markets and lights, and theaters staging seasonal shows. From about December 18, fares jump for the Christmas and New Year weeks, when the city fills with people coming home.

    Minneapolis City Hall and a snow-covered Government Plaza in winter
    Minneapolis in winter: the coldest big city in the country, and the cheapest months to fly (Photo: Tony Webster from Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Events that move Minneapolis flight and hotel prices

    Cross-check these against your dates before you book. Exact dates shift each year; Meet Minneapolis, the city’s tourism office, keeps the current calendar.

    • Saint Paul Winter Carnival (late January to early February): a local draw that lifts Saint Paul hotels on the big weekends.
    • High-school state tournaments (March): hockey and basketball tournaments that fill arenas and some downtown hotels.
    • Memorial Day weekend (last Monday of May): the unofficial start of lake season.
    • Twin Cities Pride (late June) and the Fourth of July.
    • Aquatennial (July): fireworks over the Mississippi and a busy downtown.
    • Minnesota State Fair (twelve days ending on Labor Day): the single largest hotel spike of the year.
    • Twin Cities Marathon (early October) and the MEA school break (mid-to-late October).
    • Thanksgiving and Christmas to New Year.
    • Stadium concerts, Vikings home games and major conventions, which can fill downtown on any weekend. Our Minneapolis events page shows what is on sale for your dates.

    Getting in from the airport

    Minneapolis-Saint Paul International (MSP) sits between the two cities, about 16 km (10 miles) south of downtown Minneapolis and a similar distance from downtown Saint Paul, and it is regularly rated among the best airports in North America in passenger surveys. It is a major hub for Delta and the home base of Sun Country, with nonstop flights to most large U.S. cities and to Amsterdam, Paris, London, Reykjavik and several other international destinations. There are two terminals: Terminal 1 handles Delta and most other airlines, and Terminal 2 handles Sun Country, Southwest and a few others; check which one your airline uses, because they are not walking distance apart, although the light rail connects them for free. Getting downtown is easy: the METRO Blue Line light rail runs from stations at both terminals to downtown Minneapolis in about 25 minutes, for a standard transit fare, and continues to Target Field in the North Loop. For Saint Paul, a Metro Transit bus runs from Terminal 1 to downtown Saint Paul, or you can change to the Green Line downtown. Taxis and ride-hail take about 20 minutes to either downtown outside rush hour, and the rental counters are in the parking ramps at each terminal. Our Minneapolis car-versus-transit guide works through whether you need a car, and our MSP airport guide covers the layout.

    The departures area at Minneapolis-Saint Paul International Airport (MSP)
    Minneapolis-Saint Paul International (MSP), a Delta hub and the home of Sun Country (Photo: Cory W. Watts from Madison, Wisconsin, United States of America via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Timing tricks that work for Minneapolis

    • Search the whole month. The State Fair, the holiday weeks and the big stadium weekends create sharp edges in the fare calendar. A calendar search on TicketScanner shows them instantly, and the week after Labor Day is often a bargain relative to the week before.
    • Book the hotel first in late August. A cheap fare into State Fair week is not cheap once the room is added. Run a Minneapolis hotel search for the same dates before you commit to either.
    • Compare carriers, not just dates. MSP is a Delta hub, so nonstops on some routes are dominated by one airline; Sun Country, Southwest and the other carriers can undercut it on particular routes and days. A search across all of them is where the savings are.
    • Fly mid-week. Business travel makes Monday morning and Thursday and Friday evening the busiest flights on many routes; Tuesday and Wednesday are usually the value.
    • Use the winter. If you do not mind the cold, January and February offer the lowest fares and hotel rates of the year, and the city’s indoor attractions are at their best.
    • Consider Chicago for a road trip. Flights to Chicago are sometimes cheaper, and the drive or the train north through Wisconsin is a classic Midwest trip; our Chicago to Minneapolis route guide covers the drive, and our guide to the best time to fly to Chicago covers that end.
    • Build a winter buffer. MSP’s snow crews are very good and the airport rarely closes, but connecting hubs elsewhere can be disrupted; avoid the tightest connections from December to March. Our guide to how early to arrive covers what to allow.
    • Flying out of Minneapolis instead? Winter fares to warm destinations rise sharply around the school breaks; see cheap flights from Minneapolis.
    Lake Harriet in Minneapolis in summer
    Lake Harriet in summer, the short high season that drives fares (Photo: Sharon Mollerus via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    What to pack, by season

    Winter (December to March): a properly insulated coat, a warm hat that covers your ears, insulated gloves or mittens, a scarf, and waterproof boots with grip; add thermal layers for anything outdoors, and do not underestimate the wind chill. Spring (April to May): layers, a waterproof jacket and shoes that can handle slush early and rain later. Summer (June to August): light clothing, sunscreen, a rain layer for the thunderstorms, insect repellent for evenings by the lakes, and a light sweater for air-conditioned theaters. Fall (September to October): layers again, and a warmer jacket by late October. The skyways and the light rail mean you can spend a winter day downtown in indoor clothes, but you will still need the coat to get to and from them.

    The best time to fly to Minneapolis for…

    The State Fair

    The last week of August or the days before Labor Day, booked as early as you can manage, with the hotel first.

    The lakes and summer weather

    Mid-June to early September for warmth, or early June and the first half of September for the best balance of weather and price.

    Fall color

    Late September for the North Shore and northern Minnesota, early-to-mid October for the Twin Cities and the Mississippi bluffs. Explore Minnesota publishes a fall color report each season.

    A real Minnesota winter

    Late January to mid-February, for the Winter Carnival, the frozen lakes and the lowest prices of the year.

    The lowest fares

    January and February after the New Year week, and November before Thanksgiving.

    International visitors

    Visitors from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before boarding; most others need a visa. The State Department’s travel site explains what applies to you, and the TSA lists what you can carry through security.

    Frequently asked questions

    What is the cheapest month to fly to Minneapolis?

    January and February are consistently the lowest for fares and hotel rates, followed by November outside Thanksgiving and early December.

    What is the best month to visit Minneapolis for weather?

    September, with June, July and August close behind for warmth. May and October are lovely in a good year.

    How cold is Minneapolis in winter?

    Daytime highs in January average around -5 °C (23 °F), with nights well below that, and most winters bring a cold snap when temperatures stay below 0 °F (-18 °C) for days. With proper clothing and the skyways, it is very manageable.

    How expensive is Minneapolis during the State Fair?

    Hotel rates across the metro climb steeply for the fair’s twelve days, and rooms near the fairgrounds sell out. Flights rise too, though less sharply. The week after Labor Day is much cheaper.

    Does MSP close for snow?

    Rarely. The airport handles heavy snow as a matter of routine, although major storms can cause delays and cancellations, especially on connections through other hubs.

    How far ahead should I book?

    Earlier for the State Fair, the holiday weeks and summer weekends, when fares tend only to rise; for January through March and November, fares are stable enough that finding the right dates matters more.

    Is Minneapolis worth visiting in winter?

    Yes, if you dress for it. Fares and hotel rates are at their lowest, the theaters and museums are in full season, and the frozen lakes and winter festivals are a genuine attraction.

    Ready to pick your dates? Compare fares across the whole month on our Minneapolis flights page, then find a room with our Minneapolis hotel search. For what to do when you land, start with our first-timer’s guide to Minneapolis.

  • Things to Do in Minneapolis: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Things to Do in Minneapolis: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Minneapolis rewards people who come without expectations. Visitors picture a cold Midwestern business city, and they find a downtown built on the only major waterfall on the Mississippi, a chain of lakes inside the city limits ringed by busy paths, two art museums that would be the pride of a city three times its size, a theater scene second only to New York’s by some counts, and neighborhoods where breweries, Somali restaurants, Scandinavian bakeries and Indigenous kitchens sit a few blocks apart. The winters are genuinely hard, and the city has answered them with enclosed skyways, a winter festival calendar and a stubborn habit of going outside anyway. This guide covers the sights that earn a day, the neighborhoods worth a half-day, the food, the State Fair and the sports, the day trips, and the practical details that turn a quick visit into a trip.

    If you are still comparing cheap flights to Minneapolis, read this alongside our guides to the best time to fly to Minneapolis and whether you need a car. Between the three you can plan the whole trip.

    The Stone Arch Bridge and the downtown Minneapolis skyline above the Mississippi River
    The Stone Arch Bridge and downtown Minneapolis, just below St. Anthony Falls (Photo: Tony Webster from Portland, Oregon, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    Minneapolis at a glance for first-timers

    • Airport: Minneapolis-Saint Paul International (MSP), about 16 km (10 miles) south of downtown Minneapolis, between the two cities. The METRO Blue Line light rail runs from both terminals to downtown in about 25 minutes. See our MSP airport guide.
    • Getting around: two light-rail lines, the Blue Line to the airport and the Mall of America and the Green Line to the University and downtown Saint Paul, plus buses. Downtown is walkable, and in winter the skyways let you cross it indoors. For day trips, most visitors rent a car.
    • Money: US dollars. Sales tax is added at the register, with extra city taxes on downtown hotels and restaurants; Minnesota does not tax most clothing, which makes shopping slightly cheaper. Tipping 18 to 20 percent in restaurants is expected.
    • Weather: four emphatic seasons: long, cold, snowy winters with Arctic outbreaks that push temperatures far below 0 °F, a short spring, warm and sometimes humid summers with thunderstorms, and a crisp, colorful fall. Our month-by-month guide has the detail.
    • Where to stay: downtown for the skyways, the theaters and the stadiums; the North Loop for restaurants and the riverfront; the St. Anthony Main side of the river for a quieter base by the falls; near the University or in Saint Paul if your plans are on that side. Our Minneapolis hotel search covers them all.

    Downtown: Nicollet Mall, the IDS Center and the skyways

    Downtown Minneapolis is compact, and its spine is Nicollet Mall, a pedestrian and transit street with public art and the bronze statue of Mary Tyler Moore tossing her hat, a nod to the television show set in the city. The IDS Center, the tallest building in the state since 1973, stands on the Mall, and its glass-roofed Crystal Court is the central crossroads of the skyway system, roughly 15 km (9.5 miles) of enclosed, heated bridges and corridors one story above the street that link some 80 blocks of downtown. Walking it in January, from a hotel to dinner to a Timberwolves game without a coat, is a genuinely Minneapolitan experience. The skyways are owned by the buildings they pass through, so hours vary: most are open from early morning into the evening on weekdays, with shorter hours on weekends. A block west, Hennepin Avenue is the theater district, with the restored Orpheum, State and Pantages theaters staging touring Broadway shows, and the First Avenue nightclub, where Prince filmed Purple Rain and whose exterior wall is covered in silver stars for the acts that have played there.

    The riverfront: St. Anthony Falls, the Stone Arch Bridge and Mill City

    Minneapolis exists because of St. Anthony Falls, the only natural major waterfall on the whole Mississippi, whose power drove the flour mills that made the city, for half a century, the milling capital of the world. The Stone Arch Bridge, a curving railroad viaduct built in 1883 and now open only to walkers and cyclists, crosses the river just below the falls and is the best viewpoint in the city, with the skyline on one side and the falls and mill ruins on the other. On the west bank, the Mill City Museum, run by the Minnesota Historical Society, is built inside the burned-out ruins of the Washburn A Mill, once the largest flour mill in the world; the Flour Tower ride and the observation deck are the highlights. Beside it, Water Works, a riverside park built into old mill foundations, is home to Owamni, the award-winning Indigenous restaurant, and the Guthrie Theater, the most celebrated regional theater in the country, has a cantilevered “Endless Bridge” over the riverbank that is free to walk onto during building hours. Across the river, the east bank has the cobblestone St. Anthony Main and Nicollet Island with its Victorian houses. The whole stretch is part of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, and the riverside paths continue for miles in both directions.

    The Walker, the Sculpture Garden and Mia

    Minneapolis has two art museums that justify the trip on their own. The Walker Art Center, on the edge of downtown by Loring Park, is one of the country’s leading museums of contemporary art. Across the street, the free Minneapolis Sculpture Garden holds some forty works across eleven acres, including Spoonbridge and Cherry by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, the giant spoon with a cherry balanced on it that appears on half the postcards in town. The Minneapolis Institute of Art, universally called Mia, in the Whittier neighborhood south of downtown, is an encyclopedic museum that runs from Egyptian antiquity through European painting, including a well-known Rembrandt, to one of the strongest Asian collections in the country, and general admission is free. On the University of Minnesota campus, the free Weisman Art Museum, in a stainless-steel building by Frank Gehry, is worth the stop for the building alone, and the American Swedish Institute, in a turreted mansion south of downtown, tells the story of the Scandinavians who shaped the state.

    The Walker Art Center, the contemporary art museum beside the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden
    The Walker Art Center, one of the country's leading contemporary art museums, beside the free Sculpture Garden (Photo: Daniel X. O'Neil via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    The lakes, the Grand Rounds and Minnehaha Falls

    The city’s best public space is not downtown at all. The Chain of Lakes, a few miles southwest of downtown, is where Minneapolis lives in summer: Bde Maka Ska, the largest, with beaches, sailboats and paddleboard and kayak rentals; the quieter Lake of the Isles, ringed by grand houses; Cedar Lake, with the most natural shoreline; and Lake Harriet, with a bandshell that hosts free concerts on summer evenings, rose gardens and the restored Como-Harriet streetcar, which runs short rides in summer. Paved paths, separate for walkers and cyclists, circle every lake. They are part of the Grand Rounds, a loop of parkways and trails of about 80 km (50 miles) around the city, which links the lakes to the Mississippi and to Minnehaha Falls, a 16-meter (53-foot) waterfall in a wooded gorge made famous by Longfellow’s Song of Hiawatha. The falls are free, a short walk from a Blue Line station, and in a hard winter they freeze into a column of ice. The Minneapolis Park and Recreation Board runs it all; rent a bike and you can see the lakes and the falls in a day.

    The 32nd Street beach on Bde Maka Ska, the largest of the Minneapolis lakes
    Bde Maka Ska, the largest of the Chain of Lakes, where Minneapolis spends its summer (Photo: Tony Webster from Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Neighborhoods worth a half-day

    The North Loop

    The old warehouse district beside Target Field is now the city’s most fashionable neighborhood: brick lofts, boutique hotels, independent shops and many of the city’s best restaurants and cocktail bars along Washington Avenue, a short walk from the riverfront.

    Northeast

    Across the river, “Nordeast”, the old immigrant working-class district, is now the arts and brewery quarter: studios in former factories such as the Northrup King Building, a dense cluster of taprooms, old Polish delis, and Art-A-Whirl in May, one of the largest open-studio weekends in the country.

    Uptown and Lyn-Lake

    The streets around Hennepin and Lake, a short walk from Bde Maka Ska, are the traditional nightlife district; Lyn-Lake, a few blocks east, is the more independent strip. Combine either with the lakes.

    Eat Street and Whittier

    Nicollet Avenue south of downtown, branded Eat Street, has a mile of Vietnamese, Mexican, Somali and Korean restaurants and runs past Mia. Farther south, Lake Street and the Midtown Global Market, a food hall in a former Sears building, show the city’s immigrant communities at their liveliest.

    Cedar-Riverside and the University

    The West Bank, by the University of Minnesota, is the heart of the largest Somali community in the country, with cafés, markets and restaurants. Across the river, the main campus, Dinkytown and the Weisman are a Green Line stop away.

    Saint Paul

    The other Twin City deserves at least half a day. The Green Line runs to its downtown in around 45 minutes, past the Hmong and Vietnamese restaurants of University Avenue. Saint Paul has the Cass Gilbert-designed Minnesota State Capitol, the Cathedral of Saint Paul on its hill, Summit Avenue, a long boulevard of Victorian mansions where F. Scott Fitzgerald lived as a young man, the Science Museum, and the free Como Park Zoo and Conservatory.

    Museums, culture and family attractions

    For live performance, Minneapolis is exceptional. Beyond the Guthrie and the Hennepin Avenue theaters, the Minnesota Orchestra plays at Orchestra Hall on Nicollet Mall, the Children’s Theatre Company beside Mia is one of the most honored in the nation, and dozens of smaller companies give the Twin Cities more theater seats per person than almost anywhere outside New York. The music scene produced Prince, the Replacements and Hüsker Dü, and the clubs still matter: First Avenue and its smaller room, the 7th St Entry, the Turf Club in Saint Paul, and the Dakota for jazz. Prince fans can tour Paisley Park, his home and studio complex in suburban Chanhassen, about half an hour southwest; book ahead. The Mall of America, at the end of the Blue Line, is the largest mall in the country. Historic Fort Snelling, on the bluffs where the Minnesota River meets the Mississippi, tells the story of the fort and of the Dakota people whose homeland this is. For what is on during your dates, our Minneapolis events page lists concerts, shows and games.

    The State Fair and the festival year

    For twelve days ending on Labor Day, the Minnesota State Fair is the center of the state’s universe. It is one of the largest state fairs in the country, drawing close to two million visitors to the fairgrounds between the two downtowns, and locals call it the Great Minnesota Get-Together without irony. The attractions are prize animals, butter sculptures, a midway, grandstand concerts and, above all, the food, much of it on a stick. Go on a weekday morning and take the fair’s express buses or park-and-ride shuttles rather than driving. The rest of the year has its own calendar. The Saint Paul Winter Carnival, from late January into early February, is one of the oldest winter festivals in the country, with ice sculptures and parades; the Loppet ski festival fills Theodore Wirth Park around the same time; the Aquatennial in July has fireworks over the river; Twin Cities Pride fills Loring Park in late June; and the Twin Cities Marathon, in early October, runs past the lakes and the river. If you are coming for the fair, book the hotel first: rooms across the metro fill in late August.

    Sports

    Minneapolis has a team in every major league, and most play downtown. The Twins play baseball at Target Field in the North Loop, an open-air ballpark with a skyline view; April and September games can be cold, so bring a layer. The Vikings play at U.S. Bank Stadium, the translucent-roofed building in Downtown East that hosted a Super Bowl. The Timberwolves and the Lynx, one of the most successful franchises in WNBA history, play at Target Center, connected to the skyways. The Wild play hockey in downtown Saint Paul, in a state that takes the sport more seriously than any other, and Minnesota United play soccer at Allianz Field on the Green Line. Check what is on sale in Minneapolis for your dates before you book flights.

    What to eat, and where

    Minnesota’s food reputation used to rest on hotdish, the tater-tot-topped casserole of the church basement, and it still makes an appearance. The dish every visitor should try is the Jucy Lucy (or Juicy Lucy, depending on which bar you ask), a burger with the cheese sealed inside the patty, which two South Minneapolis bars, Matt’s and the 5-8 Club, both claim to have invented; let it cool before you bite. The North Loop and Northeast have the chef-driven restaurants; Owamni, on the riverfront, serves Indigenous food without wheat, dairy or cane sugar; Eat Street and Lake Street have pho, taquerías and Somali restaurants serving rice, goat and sambusas; University Avenue in Saint Paul is the place for Hmong food; and the Scandinavian heritage survives in bakeries and holiday lefse. Walleye, the state fish, turns up as a sandwich or pan-fried at supper clubs. Minnesota changed its liquor laws in 2011 to allow brewery taprooms, and the result is one of the densest craft-beer scenes in the country, concentrated in Northeast.

    Minneapolis through the seasons

    Winter (December to early March) is cold, sometimes brutally so, with snow on the ground for months and cold snaps below -25 °C (-13 °F), but the city is built for it: the skyways connect downtown, the lakes freeze solid enough for skating, pond hockey and ice fishing, Theodore Wirth Park has cross-country skiing and a tubing hill minutes from downtown, and the museums and theaters are at their best on a January night. Spring (late March to May) arrives late; the ice leaves the lakes in April, and the Twins’ home opener is often a hat-and-gloves affair. Summer (June to August) is the payoff: long evenings on the lakes, patios in the North Loop, the Aquatennial, and the State Fair to close it out. Fall (September to October) is the local favorite: warm afternoons, cool nights, the marathon, and fall color along the river that peaks in early-to-mid October. Our month-by-month guide has the fare patterns that go with each season.

    Minneapolis with kids

    Minneapolis is an easy city with children, in any weather. The Mall of America’s Nickelodeon Universe and aquarium are the obvious indoor day, and the Blue Line takes you there. In Saint Paul, the Science Museum of Minnesota has dinosaurs and a giant-screen theater, the Minnesota Children’s Museum is built for the under-tens, and the free Como Park Zoo and Conservatory is one of the best-value family days anywhere. In summer, the lake beaches, the Lake Harriet streetcar and Minnehaha Falls fill the days; in winter, the Children’s Theatre Company, tubing at the parks and the Winter Carnival’s ice sculptures keep everyone busy. For families heading north to Duluth, our family car rental guide covers the vehicle question.

    Minneapolis on a budget

    Much of the best of Minneapolis is free: Mia, the Sculpture Garden, the Weisman, the Stone Arch Bridge and the riverfront, the Chain of Lakes, Minnehaha Falls, the Lake Harriet bandshell concerts, the Guthrie’s Endless Bridge, the skyways, and the Como Park Zoo. The Walker has free hours on certain evenings; check its site. Light-rail fares are modest, and the ride between the two airport terminals is free. Eat well for less on Eat Street, at the Midtown Global Market on Lake Street, in the Somali cafés of Cedar-Riverside and along University Avenue in Saint Paul. Hotel rates in winter are among the lowest of any major American city, and outside State Fair week, convention weeks and big stadium events, downtown rates are reasonable year-round. Compare rates by neighborhood on our Minneapolis hotel search.

    Day trips from Minneapolis

    Stillwater, about 45 minutes east on the St. Croix River, is the prettiest small town in the metro: a brick main street of antique shops and restaurants, a historic lift bridge, and paddlewheel cruises in summer. Duluth, about two and a half hours north on I-35, sits at the western tip of Lake Superior, with the Aerial Lift Bridge, a lakefront walk and the ore boats, and it is the gateway to the North Shore: Gooseberry Falls and Split Rock Lighthouse, both state parks, are within an hour of it along one of the most scenic roads in the Midwest. South along the Mississippi, Red Wing and Wabasha, where the National Eagle Center watches the bald eagles that winter on the river, make a good loop past the bluffs in fall color season. All of these are car trips; see our Minneapolis car rental page, and in winter check road conditions before heading north. Explore Minnesota covers the wider state. If you are combining the Twin Cities with Chicago, our Chicago to Minneapolis route guide covers the drive, and our guide to things to do in Chicago covers the other end.

    Split Rock Lighthouse on the cliffs above Lake Superior
    Split Rock Lighthouse on the North Shore, an easy extension of a Duluth day trip (Photo: Chris Light via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    Two sample itineraries

    Two days, no car

    Day one: Nicollet Mall and the Crystal Court, the Mill City Museum and the Guthrie’s Endless Bridge, a walk across the Stone Arch Bridge, lunch in the North Loop, the Walker and the Sculpture Garden in the afternoon, and a show on Hennepin Avenue or at First Avenue. Day two: Mia in the morning, lunch on Eat Street, an afternoon on a rented bike around the Chain of Lakes and down the Minnehaha Parkway to the falls, then the Blue Line back downtown and dinner in Northeast among the breweries.

    Four days, with Saint Paul and the St. Croix

    Add a day in Saint Paul by Green Line, then pick up a car for a day in Stillwater, or a night in Duluth and on the North Shore, returning it at the airport on the way home.

    Practical details

    • Transit: buy tickets at the light-rail station machines or in the Metro Transit app, or use a Go-To card; a day pass pays off on a busy sightseeing day. Metro Transit has maps and service alerts; our transit-versus-car guide goes into detail.
    • From MSP: the Blue Line from either terminal to downtown in about 25 minutes, a taxi or ride-hail in about 20 minutes outside rush hour, or a rental from the terminal ramps. The airport’s site covers ground transport and which airlines use which terminal.
    • Weather: serious winter gear from December to March, layers in spring and fall, and sunscreen and a rain layer in summer. NOAA’s National Weather Service office for the Twin Cities has the forecast and winter weather warnings.
    • Time zone: Central, one hour behind New York and two ahead of Los Angeles.
    • Entry requirements: visitors from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before boarding; most others need a visa. The State Department’s travel site is the authoritative source.
    • Safety: the areas visitors spend their time in, downtown, the riverfront, the lakes and the main neighborhoods, are busy and generally safe; use ordinary big-city awareness late at night downtown and on the light rail.

    Frequently asked questions

    How many days do you need in Minneapolis?

    Two full days covers downtown, the riverfront, the Walker, Mia and the lakes; add a day for Saint Paul and one or two for Stillwater, Duluth or the North Shore.

    What is the number one thing to do in Minneapolis?

    In late August, the State Fair. Any other time, the river: walk the Stone Arch Bridge at sunset, with St. Anthony Falls below and the skyline lit up behind it.

    Is Minneapolis walkable?

    Downtown, the North Loop, the riverfront and Uptown are, and the skyways make downtown walkable even in January. The lakes and Minnehaha Falls are best reached by bike or light rail.

    Do I need a car in Minneapolis?

    Not for downtown, the riverfront, the lakes or Saint Paul; the light rail and a bike cover them. For Stillwater, Duluth, the North Shore and the suburbs, yes.

    How cold does Minneapolis get in winter?

    January daytime highs are usually well below freezing, and cold snaps with temperatures below -25 °C (-13 °F) happen most winters. The skyways, the museums and good boots make it very manageable.

    What is Minneapolis known for?

    The lakes, St. Anthony Falls, the skyways, Prince, the Guthrie, the State Fair, the Jucy Lucy, and a winter locals are quietly proud of surviving.

    Ready to go? Compare flights to Minneapolis, find a place to stay with our Minneapolis hotel search, and if Duluth or the St. Croix are on the list, price a rental car for those days.

  • Phoenix: Should You Rent a Car or Rely on Public Transit?

    Phoenix: Should You Rent a Car or Rely on Public Transit?

    Phoenix is one of the most car-dependent big cities in the United States, and for most visitors the honest answer to “should I rent a car?” is yes. The metro area sprawls across a desert valley roughly the size of a small state, the attractions are spread between Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tempe, Mesa and a dozen other cities, the best trailheads have no transit at all, and Sedona and the Grand Canyon, the reasons many people fly here, are road trips. But there are real exceptions. Sky Harbor is only a few kilometers from downtown and is linked to the light rail by a free airport train, the light rail runs through the three most walkable districts in the Valley, driverless robotaxis and ride-hail cover the gaps, and a visitor on a downtown conference, a Tempe stay or a resort break may barely need a car at all. This guide explains how the Valley is laid out, how Valley Metro and its fares work, what driving here is really like in the heat and the monsoon, when a car earns its keep, and gives you a straightforward way to decide.

    The short answer

    Rent a car if Sedona, the Grand Canyon, Tucson or any other day trip is on the itinerary, if you want to hike Camelback, South Mountain or the McDowell Sonoran Preserve at dawn, if you are staying in Scottsdale, the suburbs or with family, if you are following several teams around the Cactus League ballparks, or if you are traveling with children. That is most visitors. Skip the car if you are staying downtown, in Roosevelt Row or in Tempe for a conference, a game, a concert or a short city break, and your plans are the museums, the ballpark, the arts district, Mill Avenue and the airport; the light rail, your feet and the occasional ride-hail will cover that, and you will not pay for parking. And if you are staying at a resort and plan to spend most of the time by the pool, ride-hail for the occasional outing is often cheaper than a car sitting in a valet lot. Compare rental rates for any of these plans on our Phoenix car rental page.

    How Phoenix is laid out

    Phoenix and its neighbors fill a broad, flat valley ringed by mountains, and almost all of it is laid out on a single grid. In Phoenix, Central Avenue divides east from west and Washington Street divides north from south; numbered Streets run north-south east of Central, and numbered Avenues run north-south west of it, so 16th Street and 16th Avenue are about 5 kilometers (3 miles) apart. The major arterials fall roughly every mile, which makes navigation easy and distances long. Downtown sits near the center of the city, with Roosevelt Row immediately north and Sky Harbor immediately east. Tempe and Arizona State University are a short hop southeast of the airport, Mesa beyond them, Scottsdale to the northeast, and the West Valley cities of Glendale, Peoria, Goodyear and Surprise to the west, where many spring training ballparks and the Cardinals’ stadium sit. A web of freeways links it all: I-10 and I-17 meet west of downtown at the interchange locals call the Stack, and the Loop 101, Loop 202 and Loop 303 ring the Valley, with SR 51 and US 60 filling in.

    Hotels cluster downtown around the convention center and the ballpark, near the airport, along the Camelback corridor, in Old Town Scottsdale and the resort belt north of it, in Tempe, and in the Roosevelt Row area. Our Phoenix hotel search lets you compare them.

    Getting in from the airport

    Phoenix Sky Harbor International (PHX) is about 5 kilometers (3 miles) east of downtown, and getting into the city is unusually easy. The free PHX Sky Train runs around the clock between Terminals 3 and 4, the East Economy parking area, and the 44th Street station, where you change to the Valley Metro light rail for downtown Phoenix, Tempe or Mesa; the trip downtown takes around half an hour including the change. The Sky Train also connects to the Rental Car Center, the consolidated facility west of the terminals where every major company has its counters, and shuttle buses run there as well. Taxis and ride-hail pick up at marked zones outside each terminal, and the drive downtown takes 10 to 15 minutes outside rush hour; driverless Waymo robotaxis also serve the airport. For Scottsdale, allow 20 to 30 minutes by car, and for the West Valley 30 to 45. Check the airport’s site for current ground-transport details; our PHX airport guide covers the layout.

    A Valley Metro light rail train approaching a station in downtown Phoenix
    Valley Metro light rail links the airport's Sky Train, Tempe, downtown and Central Avenue (Photo: Tomwsulcer via Wikimedia Commons, CC0)

    Phoenix transit, explained

    Valley Metro runs the light rail, the Tempe Streetcar and most of the bus network across the region. It is clean, air-conditioned and straightforward, and along its core corridor it is a genuinely useful way for a visitor to get around; its limitation is coverage, because a single rail system cannot serve a metro area this spread out, and the buses that fill in the rest run on the mile grid at frequencies that suit commuters more than sightseers.

    The light rail

    The light rail runs for more than 40 kilometers (25 miles) through the heart of the Valley. From the east, it starts in Mesa, runs through downtown Mesa and Tempe, past Arizona State University and Tempe Town Lake, crosses to the 44th Street station for the airport, and continues along Washington and Jefferson Streets into downtown Phoenix, stopping near Chase Field, the convention center and the downtown arena. From downtown it turns north along Central Avenue past Roosevelt Row, the Heard Museum and the Phoenix Art Museum, and on to north Phoenix, and since the South Central extension opened in 2025, a branch also runs south from downtown along Central Avenue toward South Mountain. The system operates as two lines that share tracks through downtown; check Valley Metro’s map for the current line names and end stations. Trains run from early morning until late evening, roughly every 12 to 20 minutes depending on the time of day.

    Streetcar and buses

    The Tempe Streetcar loops through downtown Tempe, along Mill Avenue and past the lake and the university, connecting to the light rail. Valley Metro’s buses run along most of the major arterials on the mile grid, with express routes to the suburbs; they reach places like the Desert Botanical Garden and the Phoenix Zoo, but frequencies drop in the evenings and on weekends, and waiting at a bus stop in summer is hard work. Check the timetable before relying on a bus for a return trip.

    Fares and tickets

    One fare system covers the light rail, streetcar and local buses. Buy single rides or a day pass from the ticket machines on every light-rail platform, or use the Valley Metro app on your phone, and keep your ticket with you, because fare inspectors check on board. A day pass is the best value for a sightseeing day with several rides, and reduced fares are available for seniors and younger riders. Check Valley Metro’s site for current fares and payment options before you go.

    Accessibility

    Every light-rail station is level-boarding and step-free, and the fleet of trains, streetcars and buses is accessible; the stations have shade structures, which matter more here than almost anywhere.

    Beyond Valley Metro

    • Free circulators. Several cities run free neighborhood shuttles: the Scottsdale Trolley loops Old Town and the resort corridor, and Tempe’s Orbit buses serve the neighborhoods around the university. They are handy for short hops once you are in those districts.
    • Ride-hail and robotaxis. Uber and Lyft operate across the Valley, and Phoenix is one of the places where driverless Waymo robotaxis carry the public, across much of Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tempe, Mesa and Chandler. For short trips, especially in a group, ride-hail is competitive with transit and much faster to places the light rail does not reach.
    • Walking and cycling. Downtown, Roosevelt Row, Old Town Scottsdale and Mill Avenue are walkable, and paths along the canals and around Tempe Town Lake are good for cycling in the cooler months; shared bikes and e-scooters operate in parts of the Valley. In summer, walking more than a few blocks in the afternoon is not advisable.
    • Tours. Day tours to Sedona and the Grand Canyon pick up from hotels across the Valley, and they are the main alternative to driving for visitors who want the canyon without the car; the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams, about three hours north, is another.
    • Intercity travel. Buses connect Phoenix with Tucson, Flagstaff, Las Vegas and Southern California. Amtrak does not serve Phoenix itself; the nearest station is in Maricopa, about 55 kilometers (35 miles) south.
    The PHX Sky Train approaching Terminal 4 at Phoenix Sky Harbor
    The free PHX Sky Train connects the terminals, the light rail and the Rental Car Center (Photo: Hunter Trick (TrickHunter) via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    Driving in Phoenix: what it is really like

    By the standards of most large American cities, Phoenix is easy to drive: a logical grid, wide arterials, a dense freeway network, good signage and plentiful parking outside the busiest districts. The frustrations are specific. Weekday rush hours, roughly 6 to 9 a.m. and 3:30 to 6:30 p.m., slow I-10 through Tempe and the West Valley, I-17 north of downtown, SR 51, and the Loop 101 through Scottsdale and Tempe. Big events, from spring training and the Phoenix Open to Cardinals games in Glendale, bring heavy traffic around the venues. Construction is constant on a freeway network that is still growing. And the distances are long: a trip from a Scottsdale resort to a ballpark in Goodyear can take the best part of an hour.

    The Stack, the interchange of Interstate 10 and Interstate 17 in Phoenix, at night
    The Stack, where I-10 meets I-17 west of downtown; the freeways are easy outside the weekday rush hours (Photo: Alan Stark from Goodyear, AZ, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Parking

    Parking in Phoenix is easier and cheaper than in most big cities. Downtown has metered street parking and many garages, which get busy and more expensive on game and concert nights. Old Town Scottsdale has free public parking garages, with time limits on some spaces. Tempe’s Mill Avenue area has garages and metered streets. The resorts usually charge for self-parking or valet, sometimes folded into the resort fee, so check before you book. Trailhead parking is the real challenge: the small lots at Camelback’s Echo Canyon and Cholla trails and at Piestewa Peak fill early on cool-season weekends, often before sunrise, so arrive early or use ride-hail. At Sky Harbor, the economy lots are linked to the terminals by the Sky Train.

    Rules and conditions worth knowing

    • The heat and your car. A parked car becomes dangerously hot within minutes in summer; never leave a child or a pet inside, even briefly. Use a windshield sunshade, cover the steering wheel and seats, keep extra water in the car, and remember that batteries and tires are more likely to fail in extreme heat, so do not skip the rental company’s warning lights.
    • Dust storms. During the monsoon, a haboob can cut visibility to near zero on the freeway in seconds. ADOT’s advice is to pull as far off the road as you safely can, turn off all your lights, set the parking brake and take your foot off the brake pedal so that other drivers do not follow your taillights, and wait until it passes.
    • Flooded washes. Never drive into a flooded road or wash, even if it looks shallow; the water can be far deeper and faster than it appears. Under Arizona’s so-called Stupid Motorist Law, drivers who go around barricades into flooded areas can be billed for the cost of their rescue.
    • Cameras. Several Valley cities, notably Scottsdale and Paradise Valley, use speed and red-light cameras on city streets; fines follow the car and the rental company will bill you, often with a fee.
    • Phones. Arizona law bans holding a phone while driving; use a mount and hands-free mode.
    • HOV lanes. The carpool lanes on the freeways are restricted to vehicles with two or more people during weekday rush hours and open to everyone at other times; check the signs.
    • Right turns on red are permitted after a full stop unless signed otherwise.
    • Road conditions. AZ511, run by the Arizona Department of Transportation, publishes closures, crashes and weather alerts, including snow on I-17 and I-40 in the high country.
    Interstate 17 near Flagstaff in the Arizona high country
    I-17 climbs from the desert to the pine country around Flagstaff in about two hours (Photo: Bernard Gagnon via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

    When renting a car makes sense

    • Sedona and the Grand Canyon. Sedona is about two hours north on I-17 and the Grand Canyon’s South Rim three and a half to four hours; a car lets you reach the trailheads early and stop at Montezuma Castle and Jerome along the way. Many Sedona trailhead lots require a Red Rock Pass, and the national park charges a vehicle entrance fee.
    • Sunrise hikes. Camelback, Piestewa Peak, South Mountain and the McDowell Sonoran Preserve are best at first light, before the heat, when transit is not running to them and ride-hail can be slow to arrive.
    • Scottsdale and the resort belt. The resorts, Taliesin West, the Musical Instrument Museum and the golf courses are spread across the northeast Valley, well away from the light rail.
    • Spring training. Ten ballparks across the Valley, several in the West Valley far from the rail line; a car makes a ballpark tour easy.
    • Families. Car seats, pool bags and the summer heat all argue for a car, and our family car rental guide looks at vehicle choice.
    • Road trips. Tucson, Las Vegas via the Hoover Dam, San Diego and Southern California; our Phoenix to San Diego route guide and Las Vegas to Phoenix route guide cover two classics.

    If any of those apply, our rental car booking tips cover insurance, deposits and the questions to ask at the counter.

    When it does not

    • You are staying downtown, in Roosevelt Row or in Tempe, and your plans are along the light rail.
    • You are in town for a convention, a Suns or Diamondbacks game, or a concert downtown, when parking near the venues is at its most expensive and the light rail stops beside them.
    • You are staying at a resort and plan to spend most of your time by the pool and the spa, with ride-hail for the occasional dinner.
    • You want the Grand Canyon for a day and are happy to take an organized tour.

    The hybrid plan for a city-plus-desert trip

    Go car-free for the city days and rent for the day trips, and think about where you pick up. Every major company operates from the Sky Harbor Rental Car Center, which is convenient but adds airport fees and surcharges, some of which have long helped fund the region’s sports venues. Neighborhood rental offices in Phoenix, Tempe and Scottsdale avoid some of those charges and make sense if you are spending the first nights in the city. A pattern that works well: take the Sky Train and light rail or a ride-hail to your hotel, spend two or three car-free days downtown and in Tempe, pick up a car from a city location for Scottsdale, a sunrise hike and a night in Sedona or at the Grand Canyon, and return it to the airport on the way to your flight home, which many companies allow at little or no extra cost. Book early for February and March, when the Rental Car Center can run short of cars. Compare the day rates on our Phoenix car rental page against a full-trip rental and the difference is usually obvious.

    A worked cost comparison

    Numbers change with the season and the booking window, so treat this as a method rather than a quote, and check current rates before deciding. For a three-night city break downtown for two people, the car-free version costs two light-rail day passes each and perhaps three or four ride-hail trips to the Desert Botanical Garden, Old Town Scottsdale and back; the rental version adds three days of a compact car, airport fees and surcharges, three nights of hotel parking and fuel, and buys you little you could not reach otherwise. The transit option wins. For a four-night stay with a day in Sedona, the car-free version adds an organized Sedona tour for two; the hybrid version adds a one-day rental from a city location, fuel and a Red Rock Pass. For two people the rental is usually cheaper than the tour and far more flexible; for one person the tour can be competitive. For a week at a Scottsdale resort with golf, hiking and the Grand Canyon, a rental for the whole stay is the only practical answer, and the airport pickup, despite the surcharges, is simpler than paying for ride-hail across the Valley every day. Run the rental rates for your dates on our Phoenix car rental page and put them beside the tour and ride-hail costs before you choose.

    Driving out of Phoenix in each season

    The highways out of Phoenix are good, but they cross some of the most extreme terrain in the country, and conditions change fast with altitude and season. I-17 north to Sedona and Flagstaff climbs from the desert floor to over 2,000 meters (about 7,000 feet) near Flagstaff in about two hours; in summer it is the escape route, jammed northbound on Friday afternoons and southbound on Sunday afternoons, and in winter the upper stretch and I-40 can be snowy or icy while Phoenix is sunny and warm, so check AZ511 before you leave and ask for an all-wheel-drive car if snow is forecast. US 93 northwest to Las Vegas runs through Wickenburg and Kingman and crosses the Colorado River on the bridge beside the Hoover Dam; it is about five hours, remote in places, and fuel stops are far apart. I-8 west to San Diego crosses the low desert past Gila Bend and Yuma, some of the hottest country in North America in summer, before climbing through the mountains east of San Diego; about five and a half hours in all, and Border Patrol checkpoints operate on some highways in the borderlands, so carry ID. I-10 runs southeast to Tucson in about two hours and west to Los Angeles. In summer, the risk on every route is the heat: a breakdown in the desert is dangerous, so start with a full tank, carry plenty of water, keep your phone charged, and stay with the car if it breaks down. During the monsoon, add dust storms and flash floods. In winter, the low desert is perfect for driving, and the high country needs respect. For the canyon, Grand Canyon National Park posts current road and weather conditions.

    Decision table

    Your tripRecommendationWhy
    City break downtown or in TempeNo carThe light rail links the airport, downtown, Roosevelt Row and Tempe
    Convention or game downtownNo carThe light rail stops beside the venues; event parking is expensive
    Resort stay, mostly by the poolNo car, ride-hail for outingsAvoids resort parking fees for a car you rarely use
    Scottsdale, golf and sunrise hikesRent for the whole stayResorts, courses and trailheads are far from transit
    City plus Sedona or the Grand CanyonHybrid: rent from a city location for the trip daysCar-free city days, car for the high country
    Grand Canyon without drivingOrganized tourHotel pickup and no long drive
    Spring training ballpark tourRent at the airportTen ballparks spread across the Valley
    Arizona or Southwest road tripRent (consider one-way to Las Vegas or San Diego)Phoenix is the start, not the destination

    Money-saving tips for both options

    • On transit: the Sky Train is free; buy a day pass for a heavy sightseeing day on the light rail; use the free Scottsdale Trolley and Tempe Orbit once you are in those districts.
    • On a rental: compare airport and neighborhood pickup, book early for February and March, decline extras you already have through a credit card or home policy (check first), and buy the Red Rock Pass or national park pass in advance where you can.
    • On the hotel: if you are renting, price the parking or resort fee into the room rate, and look at resorts whose fees include parking.
    • On timing: avoid the freeways in the weekday rush hours, I-17 northbound on summer Friday afternoons and southbound on Sunday afternoons; the best time to fly to Phoenix guide lists the busiest weeks, and for a wider Southwest trip our guide to whether you need a car in Las Vegas covers the other end of the drive.
    • On ride-hail: for a group of three or four on a short trip, a single ride often costs less than four transit fares and saves waiting in the heat.

    Frequently asked questions

    Is it worth renting a car in Phoenix?

    For Scottsdale, the trailheads, the ballparks, Sedona and the Grand Canyon, yes, and that is most visitors. For a downtown or Tempe stay built around the light rail, no.

    Is Phoenix public transit good for tourists?

    Good along its core corridor: the light rail links the airport’s Sky Train, Tempe, downtown, Roosevelt Row and the Heard Museum. It thins out quickly beyond that, and the buses are slow for sightseeing.

    How do I get from Phoenix Sky Harbor to downtown?

    The free Sky Train to the 44th Street station and then the light rail, in about half an hour, or a taxi, ride-hail or robotaxi in 10 to 15 minutes outside rush hour.

    Can I get to Sedona or the Grand Canyon without a car?

    Yes, on organized day tours that pick up from Phoenix hotels, or by combining an intercity bus with local tours. A car gives you far more flexibility.

    Is it safe to drive in Phoenix in summer?

    Yes, with precautions: keep water in the car, never leave anyone in a parked vehicle, pull off the road in a dust storm, and never drive into a flooded wash.

    Is parking expensive in Phoenix?

    Less than in most big cities. Downtown garages cost more on event nights, resorts charge for parking or valet, and Old Town Scottsdale has free public garages.

    Do I need a four-wheel drive for Arizona?

    Not for the paved highways to Sedona, the Grand Canyon, Tucson, Las Vegas or San Diego. Consider all-wheel drive in winter if snow is forecast for Flagstaff and the high country.

    Whichever way you go, start with the flight. Compare cheap flights to Phoenix, choose a neighborhood with our Phoenix hotel search, and if Sedona or the Grand Canyon is on the list, price the rental for those dates on our Phoenix car rental page. For what to do once you arrive, start with our first-timer’s guide to Phoenix.

  • Things to Do in Phoenix: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Things to Do in Phoenix: A First-Timer’s Guide

    Phoenix is easy to misread from the air. Coming in to land, it looks like one enormous grid of rooftops and swimming pools stretching to the mountains, and plenty of visitors treat it that way: a resort, a round of golf, a spring training game and a flight home. They miss a city with some of the best museums in the West, a botanical garden devoted entirely to the desert, mountains you can climb before breakfast without leaving the city limits, an arts district that fills with thousands of people on the first Friday of every month, a food scene rooted in Sonoran Mexican cooking, and a winter climate that makes it the warmest big-city escape in the country from November to April. Sedona and the Grand Canyon are a morning’s drive away. This guide covers the sights that earn a day, the neighborhoods worth a half-day, the food, spring training and the sports, the day trips that make Phoenix a base as much as a destination, how to handle the summer heat, and the practical details that turn a resort stay into a trip.

    If you are still comparing cheap flights to Phoenix, read this alongside our guides to the best time to fly to Phoenix and whether you need a rental car. Between the three you can plan the whole trip.

    The downtown Phoenix skyline with desert mountains behind
    Downtown Phoenix from South Mountain, at the center of a desert valley ringed by mountains (Photo: Alan Stark from Goodyear, AZ, United States via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0)

    Phoenix at a glance for first-timers

    • Airport: Phoenix Sky Harbor International (PHX), about 5 km (3 miles) east of downtown, one of the closest big-city airports to its center in the country; the free PHX Sky Train links the terminals to the light rail, and a taxi, ride-hail or rental gets you anywhere in the Valley. See our PHX airport guide.
    • Getting around: Valley Metro light rail runs from the airport’s Sky Train connection through downtown Phoenix, Tempe and Mesa. Beyond that corridor, the Valley is built for driving, and most visitors rent a car for at least part of their stay.
    • Money: U.S. dollars. Sales tax is added at the register, and hotels and rental cars carry their own extra taxes and fees, so compare total prices. Many resorts add a nightly resort fee. Tipping 18 to 20 percent in restaurants is standard.
    • Weather: sunny almost every day, with mild winters, hot springs and falls, and summers that regularly pass 43 °C (110 °F). Arizona does not observe daylight saving time. Our month-by-month guide has the detail.
    • Where to stay: downtown for the ballpark, the convention center and the light rail; Roosevelt Row for galleries, bars and a local feel; Scottsdale for resorts, golf and nightlife; Tempe for the university and the lake; the Camelback corridor and Paradise Valley for the classic desert resorts. Our Phoenix hotel search covers them all.

    Downtown: Heritage Square, the Heard and the sports district

    Downtown Phoenix spent decades emptying out after dark and has spent the last two filling back up, helped by the light rail, the Arizona State University campus, and a cluster of new apartment towers. Start at Heritage Square, a block of restored late-19th-century houses that survived the city’s growth, including the Victorian Rosson House, which you can tour, and a converted brick building that holds Pizzeria Bianco, the restaurant that made Phoenix a name among pizza obsessives. The Arizona Science Center is next door, and the Children’s Museum of Phoenix is a few blocks away. A few blocks south, Chase Field, the home of the Arizona Diamondbacks, has a retractable roof and air conditioning that make summer baseball bearable, and the downtown arena beside it hosts the Suns, the Mercury and the big touring concerts. A short ride north on the light rail, the Heard Museum is one of the finest museums of American Indian art and culture in the country, with galleries on the peoples of the Southwest, a celebrated collection of Hopi katsina dolls, contemporary art, and a long-running, sobering exhibit on the federal boarding-school era; plan at least half a day. The Phoenix Art Museum, a few blocks away on Central Avenue, is one of the largest art museums in the Southwest, with strong fashion and Western American collections.

    Papago Park and the Desert Botanical Garden

    If you only do one thing in Phoenix, make it the Desert Botanical Garden. Set among the red sandstone buttes of Papago Park, on the border of Phoenix, Scottsdale and Tempe, it holds tens of thousands of desert plants from around the world along easy looped trails, with towering saguaros, blooming cactus gardens in spring, a wildflower loop, and exhibits on how the peoples of the Sonoran Desert have lived from its plants for centuries. Go at opening time in any season except winter, and consider the evening events: in December the garden’s paths are lined with thousands of luminarias, paper-bag lanterns, for one of the Valley’s favorite holiday traditions. Beside it, the Phoenix Zoo is spread across the same desert landscape and has a strong Arizona trail. Papago Park itself is free: the short scramble up to Hole-in-the-Rock, a natural window in a sandstone butte, is the classic sunset view over the city, and the lagoons, the white pyramid of Hunt’s Tomb (the resting place of Arizona’s first governor) and the flat walking loops around the buttes make an easy morning.

    Saguaros and cactus gardens at the Desert Botanical Garden in Papago Park
    The Desert Botanical Garden in Papago Park, the one sight no first visit should skip (Photo: Simeon87 via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)

    The mountains in the city: Camelback, Piestewa and South Mountain

    What sets Phoenix apart from other Sun Belt cities is the mountains rising straight out of its neighborhoods. Camelback Mountain, the humped red peak between Phoenix and Paradise Valley, has two summit trails, Echo Canyon and Cholla, that are steep, rocky and genuinely strenuous, with handrails on the steepest sections of Echo Canyon; the view from the top across the whole Valley is worth it, but this is not a casual stroll, and the fire department carries out rescues here every year. Piestewa Peak, in the Phoenix Mountains Preserve to the north, has a similarly steep summit trail and gentler loops around its base. South Mountain Park and Preserve, on the city’s southern edge, is one of the largest city parks in the United States, with about 80 kilometers (50 miles) of trails, petroglyphs, and a road to Dobbins Lookout that gives you the famous view of the downtown skyline without the climb. In Scottsdale, the McDowell Sonoran Preserve protects a vast stretch of desert with well-marked trailheads and some of the best saguaro forests near the city. The rule for all of them is the same: start at first light, carry far more water than you think you need, and be off the trail before the day heats up.

    Camelback Mountain seen from Papago Park in Phoenix
    Camelback Mountain from Papago Park: a steep sunrise climb with a view over the whole Valley (Photo: Dru Bloomfield from Scottsdale, Arizona, USA via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)

    Neighborhoods worth a half-day

    Roosevelt Row

    Just north of downtown, Roosevelt Row is the city’s arts district: murals on nearly every wall, galleries in old bungalows, coffee shops, bars and some of the best independent restaurants in Phoenix. On First Fridays, the monthly evening art walk, the streets fill with galleries, food trucks and street performers; it is one of the largest events of its kind in the country and free. It is on the light rail.

    Old Town Scottsdale

    Scottsdale’s historic core mixes Western-themed souvenir shops, serious galleries of Southwestern and Native art, the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art, and a dense entertainment district of restaurants, cocktail bars and nightclubs that is the Valley’s busiest nightlife. On Thursday evenings the galleries host an art walk, and a free trolley loops the district.

    Tempe and Mill Avenue

    Home of Arizona State University, Tempe is the Valley’s college town: Mill Avenue has bars, restaurants and shops, Tempe Town Lake on the Salt River has paths for walking and cycling and paddleboard rentals, and the streetcar loops through downtown and the campus. It is on the light rail, and the Papago buttes rise just across the water.

    Arcadia and the Camelback corridor

    East Phoenix at the foot of Camelback Mountain, Arcadia is a leafy neighborhood of ranch houses and old citrus groves, with some of the city’s most popular brunch spots and patios. West of it, the Biltmore district is home to the Arizona Biltmore, the 1929 resort whose patterned concrete blocks show the influence of Frank Lloyd Wright; its lobby is worth a look even if you are not staying.

    Mesa and the Asian District

    Mesa, the Valley’s second-largest city, has a revived downtown on the light rail with the Arizona Museum of Natural History, and along Dobson Road an Asian District of Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese and Filipino restaurants and markets that is one of the best-value food trips in the metro area.

    Museums, culture and family attractions

    The Musical Instrument Museum, in north Phoenix, is one of the most unexpected museums in the country: thousands of instruments from nearly every nation on Earth, with headsets that play each gallery’s music as you approach, an experience room where you can play some of them, and galleries devoted to famous musicians. In Scottsdale, Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home and architecture school, built from desert stone in the 1930s, is part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing of Wright’s work, and it can be seen only on guided tours, which are worth booking ahead in winter and spring. Pueblo Grande Museum Archaeological Park, beside the airport, preserves a platform mound built by the Hohokam, the people who dug the irrigation canals along the Salt River more than a thousand years ago; the modern city’s canals follow many of the same routes. For performance, the Orpheum Theatre and Symphony Hall downtown host the Phoenix Symphony, Arizona Opera and Ballet Arizona. For what is on stage and in the arenas during your dates, our Phoenix events page lists concerts, shows and games.

    Spring training and the winter season

    From mid-February to late March, the Valley becomes the home of the Cactus League, as half of Major League Baseball’s teams hold spring training in ten ballparks spread across Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tempe, Mesa, Glendale, Goodyear, Peoria and Surprise. The ballparks are small, the seats are close, tickets cost a fraction of a regular-season game, and on a warm March afternoon with a lawn seat and a cold drink it is one of the best days out in American sport. It is also the busiest time of the year for hotels, because it coincides with the peak of the winter-visitor season. Early February brings the WM Phoenix Open at TPC Scottsdale, one of the best-attended golf tournaments in the world, famous for the rowdy stadium around its 16th hole; January brings the Barrett-Jackson collector car auction to Scottsdale; and the Heard Museum’s Guild Indian Fair and Market, one of the most important Native art markets in the country, fills its grounds in early March. If your trip falls in this window, book the hotel before the flight; if it does not, the weeks just before and after are some of the best-value weeks of the Valley’s high season.

    Sports

    Phoenix is a four-league market with a year-round calendar. The Arizona Diamondbacks play baseball at Chase Field downtown from April to September, with the roof closed and the air conditioning running through the summer. The Phoenix Suns play basketball from October to April in the downtown arena, which they share with the Phoenix Mercury of the WNBA in summer. The Arizona Cardinals play NFL football at State Farm Stadium in Glendale, a building with a retractable roof and a grass field that rolls outside to catch the sun; the same stadium hosts the Fiesta Bowl around New Year and has staged several Super Bowls. Phoenix Raceway in Avondale hosts NASCAR weekends, and ASU’s Sun Devils play college football in Tempe. Golf is the other sport: the Valley has roughly 200 courses, and winter tee times at the famous ones sell out. Check what is on sale in Phoenix for your dates before you book flights.

    What to eat, and where

    Phoenix food starts with Sonoran Mexican cooking, the style of the neighboring Mexican state: flour tortillas as thin as paper, carne asada grilled over mesquite, cheese crisps, green corn tamales in late summer, and the chimichanga, the deep-fried burrito whose invention both Phoenix and Tucson claim. The Sonoran hot dog, bacon-wrapped and piled with beans, onions, tomatoes, mayonnaise and jalapeño sauce in a soft bolillo roll, is sold from carts and small stands across the city and is worth one lunch. Beyond that, the city has a national reputation for pizza, led by Pizzeria Bianco at Heritage Square; an excellent Asian food corridor in Mesa; a strong brunch culture in Arcadia and Roosevelt Row; and a growing group of chefs cooking with desert ingredients such as prickly pear, mesquite flour, cholla buds and Medjool dates from the farms of the lower Colorado River. Craft breweries are everywhere, and prickly pear margaritas are the local signature cocktail. The Saturday-morning farmers’ market downtown is good for Arizona produce, citrus in winter and local honey.

    Phoenix through the seasons

    Phoenix runs on a reversed calendar: winter is high season, and summer is when locals leave. Winter (December to February) is sunny and mild, with afternoons in the high teens to low 20s Celsius (mid-60s to low 70s Fahrenheit), chilly nights, and snow visible on the high peaks to the north; it is golf, hiking and patio season, the resorts are full of winter visitors from Canada and the Midwest, and the Phoenix Open arrives in early February. Spring (March to May) is the best of the year: spring training, wildflowers in wet years, the saguaros blooming white from late April, and pool weather by May. Summer (June to September) is extreme: highs regularly above 43 °C (110 °F), overnight lows that can stay above 30 °C (86 °F), and the monsoon from July bringing dust storms, lightning and sudden downpours. The city moves indoors, into the pools and up to the cool pine country two hours north, and resort rates fall dramatically. Fall (October to November) brings the heat down to perfect by November, with the Arizona State Fair, football and the return of the winter visitors. Our month-by-month guide has the fare patterns that go with each season.

    Staying safe in the summer heat

    Phoenix heat is not an inconvenience to push through; it is a genuine health risk, especially for visitors who are not used to it. From roughly late May to late September, plan outdoor activity for the first hours after sunrise and the evening, and spend the middle of the day indoors or in the water. Heat illness can develop quickly, and thirst is a late signal, so drink water steadily through the day and add electrolytes if you are active; wear a hat, loose light clothing and sunscreen. On the trails, start at dawn, carry more water than you expect to need, and turn back well before you run low; on days when a heat warning is in effect, the city closes the trails at Camelback and Piestewa Peak during the hottest hours. Dark pavement, playground slides, car seats and seat-belt buckles can get hot enough to burn skin, and a parked car heats up dangerously within minutes, so never leave a child or a pet in one, even briefly. The National Weather Service office in Phoenix issues the forecasts and heat warnings; check them each morning, and treat its advice as the plan for the day.

    Phoenix with kids

    Phoenix is an easy family city, especially from October to April. The Phoenix Zoo and the Desert Botanical Garden, side by side in Papago Park, make a full day. The Arizona Science Center downtown has a planetarium and hands-on galleries, the Children’s Museum of Phoenix is one of the best for under-tens in the West, and the Musical Instrument Museum’s experience room is a hit with every age. OdySea Aquarium, on the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community’s land beside Scottsdale, has sharks, penguins and hands-on exhibits. In summer, the big resort pools with lazy rivers and water slides, the Valley’s water parks and the ice rinks become the plan. Spring training suits children perfectly, with lawn seating and players signing autographs along the fences. For families heading out on day trips, our family car rental guide covers the vehicle question.

    Phoenix on a budget

    A lot of the best of Phoenix is free: the hiking trails at Camelback, Piestewa Peak, South Mountain and the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, Papago Park and Hole-in-the-Rock, Tempe Town Lake, First Fridays on Roosevelt Row, the Thursday art walk in Old Town Scottsdale, and the Arizona Capitol Museum. The Desert Botanical Garden, the Heard and the Musical Instrument Museum charge admission but are worth it, and some museums offer free or reduced entry on certain evenings; check their sites. Summer is the budget season: resort rates can drop to a fraction of their winter level, and many restaurants run summer deals for locals. Eat well for less along Dobson Road in Mesa, at the taquerias and Sonoran hot dog stands across the city, and at happy hours. A light-rail day pass covers downtown, Tempe and Mesa. Compare rates by neighborhood on our Phoenix hotel search.

    Day trips from Phoenix

    Sedona is about two hours north on I-17: red rock buttes, vortex trails, Cathedral Rock and Bell Rock, galleries and a canyon drive up Oak Creek to Flagstaff; many trailhead lots need a Red Rock Pass, and a free trailhead shuttle runs on busy days. On the way, Montezuma Castle National Monument preserves a cliff dwelling set into a limestone wall, and the old mining town of Jerome clings to a hillside above the Verde Valley. The South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is about three and a half to four hours each way and is better as an overnight trip. Closer in, the Superstition Mountains east of Mesa have Lost Dutchman State Park, Canyon Lake and the start of the Apache Trail; Tucson, about two hours south, has Saguaro National Park and its own Sonoran food scene; and Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, an hour south, protects a four-story Hohokam great house. Las Vegas is about five hours northwest by way of the Hoover Dam; see our Las Vegas guide and the Las Vegas to Phoenix route guide. San Diego and the Pacific are about five and a half hours west on I-8; our Phoenix to San Diego route guide covers the drive. All of these are car trips; see our Phoenix car rental page, and carry extra water in summer. Visit Arizona covers the wider state.

    Cathedral Rock in Sedona, two hours north of Phoenix
    Cathedral Rock in Sedona, about two hours north of Phoenix on I-17 (Photo: Nikolai Gates Vetr via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0)

    Two sample itineraries

    Three days, light car use

    Day one: the Heard Museum in the morning by light rail, lunch at Heritage Square, the Arizona Science Center or the Phoenix Art Museum in the afternoon, and dinner and bars on Roosevelt Row. Day two: a sunrise hike on Piestewa Peak or South Mountain, the Desert Botanical Garden, sunset at Hole-in-the-Rock, and an evening on Mill Avenue in Tempe. Day three: the Musical Instrument Museum, Taliesin West in the afternoon, and dinner and nightlife in Old Town Scottsdale, with ride-hail filling the gaps.

    Five days, with Sedona and the Grand Canyon

    Add a spring training game or a spa afternoon at a resort, then pick up a car and drive north to Sedona for a night, continue to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim for sunset and sunrise, and return through Flagstaff and down I-17, dropping the car at the Sky Harbor Rental Car Center on the way home.

    Practical details

    • Transit: buy light-rail and bus passes at station machines or in the Valley Metro app. Valley Metro has maps; our car-versus-transit guide goes into detail.
    • From PHX: the free Sky Train to the light rail at 44th Street, a taxi or ride-hail, or a rental from the Rental Car Center. The airport’s site covers ground transport.
    • Weather: sun protection and water in every season, a warm layer for winter evenings, and serious heat precautions from May to September. The National Weather Service’s Phoenix office issues heat and dust-storm warnings.
    • Time zone: Mountain Standard Time all year. Arizona does not change its clocks, so it matches Los Angeles in summer and Denver in winter; the Navajo Nation in the northeast does observe daylight saving time.
    • Entry requirements: Canadians need a valid passport; visitors from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before boarding, and everyone else needs a visa. U.S. Customs and Border Protection is the authoritative source.
    • Safety: the tourist areas are generally safe with ordinary big-city awareness; the heat, the trails and monsoon flash floods are the real hazards, so never drive into a flooded wash.

    Frequently asked questions

    How many days do you need in Phoenix?

    Three days covers the museums, the Desert Botanical Garden, a sunrise hike and two neighborhoods; add one for Sedona and two for the Grand Canyon.

    What is the number one thing to do in Phoenix?

    The Desert Botanical Garden, ideally at opening time, followed by sunset at Hole-in-the-Rock next door. From February to March, add a spring training game.

    Is Phoenix walkable?

    Downtown, Roosevelt Row, Old Town Scottsdale and Mill Avenue in Tempe are, and the light rail links several of them. The rest of the Valley assumes a car, and summer heat limits walking anywhere.

    Do I need a car in Phoenix?

    Not for downtown, Tempe and a resort stay with ride-hail. For Scottsdale’s attractions, the trailheads, Sedona and the Grand Canyon, yes, and that is most visitors.

    Is it safe to visit Phoenix in summer?

    Yes, if you plan around the heat: outdoor activity at dawn and dusk, the middle of the day indoors, plenty of water, and a check of the National Weather Service forecast each day. Resort rates are at their lowest.

    What is Phoenix known for?

    Desert sunshine, winter golf and resorts, spring training baseball, saguaros and the Sonoran Desert, Sonoran Mexican food, and being the gateway to Sedona and the Grand Canyon.

    Ready to go? Compare flights to Phoenix, find a place to stay with our Phoenix hotel search, and if Sedona or the Grand Canyon is on the list, price a rental car for those days.