Phoenix is easy to misread from the air. Coming in to land, it looks like one enormous grid of rooftops and swimming pools stretching to the mountains, and plenty of visitors treat it that way: a resort, a round of golf, a spring training game and a flight home. They miss a city with some of the best museums in the West, a botanical garden devoted entirely to the desert, mountains you can climb before breakfast without leaving the city limits, an arts district that fills with thousands of people on the first Friday of every month, a food scene rooted in Sonoran Mexican cooking, and a winter climate that makes it the warmest big-city escape in the country from November to April. Sedona and the Grand Canyon are a morning’s drive away. This guide covers the sights that earn a day, the neighborhoods worth a half-day, the food, spring training and the sports, the day trips that make Phoenix a base as much as a destination, how to handle the summer heat, and the practical details that turn a resort stay into a trip.
If you are still comparing cheap flights to Phoenix, read this alongside our guides to the best time to fly to Phoenix and whether you need a rental car. Between the three you can plan the whole trip.

Phoenix at a glance for first-timers
- Airport: Phoenix Sky Harbor International (PHX), about 5 km (3 miles) east of downtown, one of the closest big-city airports to its center in the country; the free PHX Sky Train links the terminals to the light rail, and a taxi, ride-hail or rental gets you anywhere in the Valley. See our PHX airport guide.
- Getting around: Valley Metro light rail runs from the airport’s Sky Train connection through downtown Phoenix, Tempe and Mesa. Beyond that corridor, the Valley is built for driving, and most visitors rent a car for at least part of their stay.
- Money: U.S. dollars. Sales tax is added at the register, and hotels and rental cars carry their own extra taxes and fees, so compare total prices. Many resorts add a nightly resort fee. Tipping 18 to 20 percent in restaurants is standard.
- Weather: sunny almost every day, with mild winters, hot springs and falls, and summers that regularly pass 43 °C (110 °F). Arizona does not observe daylight saving time. Our month-by-month guide has the detail.
- Where to stay: downtown for the ballpark, the convention center and the light rail; Roosevelt Row for galleries, bars and a local feel; Scottsdale for resorts, golf and nightlife; Tempe for the university and the lake; the Camelback corridor and Paradise Valley for the classic desert resorts. Our Phoenix hotel search covers them all.
Downtown: Heritage Square, the Heard and the sports district
Downtown Phoenix spent decades emptying out after dark and has spent the last two filling back up, helped by the light rail, the Arizona State University campus, and a cluster of new apartment towers. Start at Heritage Square, a block of restored late-19th-century houses that survived the city’s growth, including the Victorian Rosson House, which you can tour, and a converted brick building that holds Pizzeria Bianco, the restaurant that made Phoenix a name among pizza obsessives. The Arizona Science Center is next door, and the Children’s Museum of Phoenix is a few blocks away. A few blocks south, Chase Field, the home of the Arizona Diamondbacks, has a retractable roof and air conditioning that make summer baseball bearable, and the downtown arena beside it hosts the Suns, the Mercury and the big touring concerts. A short ride north on the light rail, the Heard Museum is one of the finest museums of American Indian art and culture in the country, with galleries on the peoples of the Southwest, a celebrated collection of Hopi katsina dolls, contemporary art, and a long-running, sobering exhibit on the federal boarding-school era; plan at least half a day. The Phoenix Art Museum, a few blocks away on Central Avenue, is one of the largest art museums in the Southwest, with strong fashion and Western American collections.
Papago Park and the Desert Botanical Garden
If you only do one thing in Phoenix, make it the Desert Botanical Garden. Set among the red sandstone buttes of Papago Park, on the border of Phoenix, Scottsdale and Tempe, it holds tens of thousands of desert plants from around the world along easy looped trails, with towering saguaros, blooming cactus gardens in spring, a wildflower loop, and exhibits on how the peoples of the Sonoran Desert have lived from its plants for centuries. Go at opening time in any season except winter, and consider the evening events: in December the garden’s paths are lined with thousands of luminarias, paper-bag lanterns, for one of the Valley’s favorite holiday traditions. Beside it, the Phoenix Zoo is spread across the same desert landscape and has a strong Arizona trail. Papago Park itself is free: the short scramble up to Hole-in-the-Rock, a natural window in a sandstone butte, is the classic sunset view over the city, and the lagoons, the white pyramid of Hunt’s Tomb (the resting place of Arizona’s first governor) and the flat walking loops around the buttes make an easy morning.

The mountains in the city: Camelback, Piestewa and South Mountain
What sets Phoenix apart from other Sun Belt cities is the mountains rising straight out of its neighborhoods. Camelback Mountain, the humped red peak between Phoenix and Paradise Valley, has two summit trails, Echo Canyon and Cholla, that are steep, rocky and genuinely strenuous, with handrails on the steepest sections of Echo Canyon; the view from the top across the whole Valley is worth it, but this is not a casual stroll, and the fire department carries out rescues here every year. Piestewa Peak, in the Phoenix Mountains Preserve to the north, has a similarly steep summit trail and gentler loops around its base. South Mountain Park and Preserve, on the city’s southern edge, is one of the largest city parks in the United States, with about 80 kilometers (50 miles) of trails, petroglyphs, and a road to Dobbins Lookout that gives you the famous view of the downtown skyline without the climb. In Scottsdale, the McDowell Sonoran Preserve protects a vast stretch of desert with well-marked trailheads and some of the best saguaro forests near the city. The rule for all of them is the same: start at first light, carry far more water than you think you need, and be off the trail before the day heats up.

Neighborhoods worth a half-day
Roosevelt Row
Just north of downtown, Roosevelt Row is the city’s arts district: murals on nearly every wall, galleries in old bungalows, coffee shops, bars and some of the best independent restaurants in Phoenix. On First Fridays, the monthly evening art walk, the streets fill with galleries, food trucks and street performers; it is one of the largest events of its kind in the country and free. It is on the light rail.
Old Town Scottsdale
Scottsdale’s historic core mixes Western-themed souvenir shops, serious galleries of Southwestern and Native art, the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art, and a dense entertainment district of restaurants, cocktail bars and nightclubs that is the Valley’s busiest nightlife. On Thursday evenings the galleries host an art walk, and a free trolley loops the district.
Tempe and Mill Avenue
Home of Arizona State University, Tempe is the Valley’s college town: Mill Avenue has bars, restaurants and shops, Tempe Town Lake on the Salt River has paths for walking and cycling and paddleboard rentals, and the streetcar loops through downtown and the campus. It is on the light rail, and the Papago buttes rise just across the water.
Arcadia and the Camelback corridor
East Phoenix at the foot of Camelback Mountain, Arcadia is a leafy neighborhood of ranch houses and old citrus groves, with some of the city’s most popular brunch spots and patios. West of it, the Biltmore district is home to the Arizona Biltmore, the 1929 resort whose patterned concrete blocks show the influence of Frank Lloyd Wright; its lobby is worth a look even if you are not staying.
Mesa and the Asian District
Mesa, the Valley’s second-largest city, has a revived downtown on the light rail with the Arizona Museum of Natural History, and along Dobson Road an Asian District of Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese and Filipino restaurants and markets that is one of the best-value food trips in the metro area.
Museums, culture and family attractions
The Musical Instrument Museum, in north Phoenix, is one of the most unexpected museums in the country: thousands of instruments from nearly every nation on Earth, with headsets that play each gallery’s music as you approach, an experience room where you can play some of them, and galleries devoted to famous musicians. In Scottsdale, Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home and architecture school, built from desert stone in the 1930s, is part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing of Wright’s work, and it can be seen only on guided tours, which are worth booking ahead in winter and spring. Pueblo Grande Museum Archaeological Park, beside the airport, preserves a platform mound built by the Hohokam, the people who dug the irrigation canals along the Salt River more than a thousand years ago; the modern city’s canals follow many of the same routes. For performance, the Orpheum Theatre and Symphony Hall downtown host the Phoenix Symphony, Arizona Opera and Ballet Arizona. For what is on stage and in the arenas during your dates, our Phoenix events page lists concerts, shows and games.
Spring training and the winter season
From mid-February to late March, the Valley becomes the home of the Cactus League, as half of Major League Baseball’s teams hold spring training in ten ballparks spread across Phoenix, Scottsdale, Tempe, Mesa, Glendale, Goodyear, Peoria and Surprise. The ballparks are small, the seats are close, tickets cost a fraction of a regular-season game, and on a warm March afternoon with a lawn seat and a cold drink it is one of the best days out in American sport. It is also the busiest time of the year for hotels, because it coincides with the peak of the winter-visitor season. Early February brings the WM Phoenix Open at TPC Scottsdale, one of the best-attended golf tournaments in the world, famous for the rowdy stadium around its 16th hole; January brings the Barrett-Jackson collector car auction to Scottsdale; and the Heard Museum’s Guild Indian Fair and Market, one of the most important Native art markets in the country, fills its grounds in early March. If your trip falls in this window, book the hotel before the flight; if it does not, the weeks just before and after are some of the best-value weeks of the Valley’s high season.
Sports
Phoenix is a four-league market with a year-round calendar. The Arizona Diamondbacks play baseball at Chase Field downtown from April to September, with the roof closed and the air conditioning running through the summer. The Phoenix Suns play basketball from October to April in the downtown arena, which they share with the Phoenix Mercury of the WNBA in summer. The Arizona Cardinals play NFL football at State Farm Stadium in Glendale, a building with a retractable roof and a grass field that rolls outside to catch the sun; the same stadium hosts the Fiesta Bowl around New Year and has staged several Super Bowls. Phoenix Raceway in Avondale hosts NASCAR weekends, and ASU’s Sun Devils play college football in Tempe. Golf is the other sport: the Valley has roughly 200 courses, and winter tee times at the famous ones sell out. Check what is on sale in Phoenix for your dates before you book flights.
What to eat, and where
Phoenix food starts with Sonoran Mexican cooking, the style of the neighboring Mexican state: flour tortillas as thin as paper, carne asada grilled over mesquite, cheese crisps, green corn tamales in late summer, and the chimichanga, the deep-fried burrito whose invention both Phoenix and Tucson claim. The Sonoran hot dog, bacon-wrapped and piled with beans, onions, tomatoes, mayonnaise and jalapeño sauce in a soft bolillo roll, is sold from carts and small stands across the city and is worth one lunch. Beyond that, the city has a national reputation for pizza, led by Pizzeria Bianco at Heritage Square; an excellent Asian food corridor in Mesa; a strong brunch culture in Arcadia and Roosevelt Row; and a growing group of chefs cooking with desert ingredients such as prickly pear, mesquite flour, cholla buds and Medjool dates from the farms of the lower Colorado River. Craft breweries are everywhere, and prickly pear margaritas are the local signature cocktail. The Saturday-morning farmers’ market downtown is good for Arizona produce, citrus in winter and local honey.
Phoenix through the seasons
Phoenix runs on a reversed calendar: winter is high season, and summer is when locals leave. Winter (December to February) is sunny and mild, with afternoons in the high teens to low 20s Celsius (mid-60s to low 70s Fahrenheit), chilly nights, and snow visible on the high peaks to the north; it is golf, hiking and patio season, the resorts are full of winter visitors from Canada and the Midwest, and the Phoenix Open arrives in early February. Spring (March to May) is the best of the year: spring training, wildflowers in wet years, the saguaros blooming white from late April, and pool weather by May. Summer (June to September) is extreme: highs regularly above 43 °C (110 °F), overnight lows that can stay above 30 °C (86 °F), and the monsoon from July bringing dust storms, lightning and sudden downpours. The city moves indoors, into the pools and up to the cool pine country two hours north, and resort rates fall dramatically. Fall (October to November) brings the heat down to perfect by November, with the Arizona State Fair, football and the return of the winter visitors. Our month-by-month guide has the fare patterns that go with each season.
Staying safe in the summer heat
Phoenix heat is not an inconvenience to push through; it is a genuine health risk, especially for visitors who are not used to it. From roughly late May to late September, plan outdoor activity for the first hours after sunrise and the evening, and spend the middle of the day indoors or in the water. Heat illness can develop quickly, and thirst is a late signal, so drink water steadily through the day and add electrolytes if you are active; wear a hat, loose light clothing and sunscreen. On the trails, start at dawn, carry more water than you expect to need, and turn back well before you run low; on days when a heat warning is in effect, the city closes the trails at Camelback and Piestewa Peak during the hottest hours. Dark pavement, playground slides, car seats and seat-belt buckles can get hot enough to burn skin, and a parked car heats up dangerously within minutes, so never leave a child or a pet in one, even briefly. The National Weather Service office in Phoenix issues the forecasts and heat warnings; check them each morning, and treat its advice as the plan for the day.
Phoenix with kids
Phoenix is an easy family city, especially from October to April. The Phoenix Zoo and the Desert Botanical Garden, side by side in Papago Park, make a full day. The Arizona Science Center downtown has a planetarium and hands-on galleries, the Children’s Museum of Phoenix is one of the best for under-tens in the West, and the Musical Instrument Museum’s experience room is a hit with every age. OdySea Aquarium, on the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community’s land beside Scottsdale, has sharks, penguins and hands-on exhibits. In summer, the big resort pools with lazy rivers and water slides, the Valley’s water parks and the ice rinks become the plan. Spring training suits children perfectly, with lawn seating and players signing autographs along the fences. For families heading out on day trips, our family car rental guide covers the vehicle question.
Phoenix on a budget
A lot of the best of Phoenix is free: the hiking trails at Camelback, Piestewa Peak, South Mountain and the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, Papago Park and Hole-in-the-Rock, Tempe Town Lake, First Fridays on Roosevelt Row, the Thursday art walk in Old Town Scottsdale, and the Arizona Capitol Museum. The Desert Botanical Garden, the Heard and the Musical Instrument Museum charge admission but are worth it, and some museums offer free or reduced entry on certain evenings; check their sites. Summer is the budget season: resort rates can drop to a fraction of their winter level, and many restaurants run summer deals for locals. Eat well for less along Dobson Road in Mesa, at the taquerias and Sonoran hot dog stands across the city, and at happy hours. A light-rail day pass covers downtown, Tempe and Mesa. Compare rates by neighborhood on our Phoenix hotel search.
Day trips from Phoenix
Sedona is about two hours north on I-17: red rock buttes, vortex trails, Cathedral Rock and Bell Rock, galleries and a canyon drive up Oak Creek to Flagstaff; many trailhead lots need a Red Rock Pass, and a free trailhead shuttle runs on busy days. On the way, Montezuma Castle National Monument preserves a cliff dwelling set into a limestone wall, and the old mining town of Jerome clings to a hillside above the Verde Valley. The South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is about three and a half to four hours each way and is better as an overnight trip. Closer in, the Superstition Mountains east of Mesa have Lost Dutchman State Park, Canyon Lake and the start of the Apache Trail; Tucson, about two hours south, has Saguaro National Park and its own Sonoran food scene; and Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, an hour south, protects a four-story Hohokam great house. Las Vegas is about five hours northwest by way of the Hoover Dam; see our Las Vegas guide and the Las Vegas to Phoenix route guide. San Diego and the Pacific are about five and a half hours west on I-8; our Phoenix to San Diego route guide covers the drive. All of these are car trips; see our Phoenix car rental page, and carry extra water in summer. Visit Arizona covers the wider state.

Two sample itineraries
Three days, light car use
Day one: the Heard Museum in the morning by light rail, lunch at Heritage Square, the Arizona Science Center or the Phoenix Art Museum in the afternoon, and dinner and bars on Roosevelt Row. Day two: a sunrise hike on Piestewa Peak or South Mountain, the Desert Botanical Garden, sunset at Hole-in-the-Rock, and an evening on Mill Avenue in Tempe. Day three: the Musical Instrument Museum, Taliesin West in the afternoon, and dinner and nightlife in Old Town Scottsdale, with ride-hail filling the gaps.
Five days, with Sedona and the Grand Canyon
Add a spring training game or a spa afternoon at a resort, then pick up a car and drive north to Sedona for a night, continue to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim for sunset and sunrise, and return through Flagstaff and down I-17, dropping the car at the Sky Harbor Rental Car Center on the way home.
Practical details
- Transit: buy light-rail and bus passes at station machines or in the Valley Metro app. Valley Metro has maps; our car-versus-transit guide goes into detail.
- From PHX: the free Sky Train to the light rail at 44th Street, a taxi or ride-hail, or a rental from the Rental Car Center. The airport’s site covers ground transport.
- Weather: sun protection and water in every season, a warm layer for winter evenings, and serious heat precautions from May to September. The National Weather Service’s Phoenix office issues heat and dust-storm warnings.
- Time zone: Mountain Standard Time all year. Arizona does not change its clocks, so it matches Los Angeles in summer and Denver in winter; the Navajo Nation in the northeast does observe daylight saving time.
- Entry requirements: Canadians need a valid passport; visitors from Visa Waiver Program countries need an approved ESTA before boarding, and everyone else needs a visa. U.S. Customs and Border Protection is the authoritative source.
- Safety: the tourist areas are generally safe with ordinary big-city awareness; the heat, the trails and monsoon flash floods are the real hazards, so never drive into a flooded wash.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Phoenix?
Three days covers the museums, the Desert Botanical Garden, a sunrise hike and two neighborhoods; add one for Sedona and two for the Grand Canyon.
What is the number one thing to do in Phoenix?
The Desert Botanical Garden, ideally at opening time, followed by sunset at Hole-in-the-Rock next door. From February to March, add a spring training game.
Is Phoenix walkable?
Downtown, Roosevelt Row, Old Town Scottsdale and Mill Avenue in Tempe are, and the light rail links several of them. The rest of the Valley assumes a car, and summer heat limits walking anywhere.
Do I need a car in Phoenix?
Not for downtown, Tempe and a resort stay with ride-hail. For Scottsdale’s attractions, the trailheads, Sedona and the Grand Canyon, yes, and that is most visitors.
Is it safe to visit Phoenix in summer?
Yes, if you plan around the heat: outdoor activity at dawn and dusk, the middle of the day indoors, plenty of water, and a check of the National Weather Service forecast each day. Resort rates are at their lowest.
What is Phoenix known for?
Desert sunshine, winter golf and resorts, spring training baseball, saguaros and the Sonoran Desert, Sonoran Mexican food, and being the gateway to Sedona and the Grand Canyon.
Ready to go? Compare flights to Phoenix, find a place to stay with our Phoenix hotel search, and if Sedona or the Grand Canyon is on the list, price a rental car for those days.
Keep planning with TicketScanner
- Cheap flights to Phoenix
- Phoenix hotels — downtown, Scottsdale, Tempe and the resorts
- Phoenix car rentals — for Sedona, the Grand Canyon and the trailheads
- Events in Phoenix — Suns, Diamondbacks, Cardinals, concerts and shows on sale
- Best time to fly to Phoenix: month by month
- Phoenix: rent a car or use public transit?
- Phoenix Sky Harbor (PHX) airport guide
- Where to stay: Roosevelt Row
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